Vino Italiano, Waltham, MA

I recently had the pleasure of attending another amazing wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA. The evening featured the wines of Vecchie Terre di Montefili, curated by the engaging Serena Gusmeri, their Director and Winemaker.

Before we dive into the wine tasting itself, let’s explore more about Vecchie Terre di Montefili.

Vecchie Terre di Montefili: Listening to the Hill, One Parcel at a Time

High above Panzano in Chianti, perched on one of the most elevated ridgelines of the Chianti Classico zone, Vecchie Terre di Montefili feels less like a winery and more like a quiet observatory. From here, the land unfolds in slow, deliberate rhythms—vine, soil, wind, and sky all conspiring to shape Sangiovese in its most transparent form. Montefili is not about spectacle or trend-chasing; it is about listening.

Montefili’s story stretches back long before modern viticulture. The hill itself has been cultivated since Etruscan and Roman times, later stewarded by Benedictine monks of nearby Badia a Passignano as early as 986 AD. In the 1970s, the Acuti family planted the estate’s first modern vineyards, tapping into the experimental spirit of the early Super Tuscan era. A pivotal change came in 2015, when the property passed to three American owners—Nicola Marzovilla, Frank Bynum, and Tom Peck Jr.—who recommitted Montefili to terroir-driven, Sangiovese-focused excellence.

Rather than reinvent the estate, the new stewardship stripped it back to essentials: altitude, old vines, and a profound respect for place.

The Vineyards: Altitude, Old Vines, and Individual Identity

At 480 to 550 meters above sea level, Montefili is among the highest estates in Chianti Classico. This altitude brings cooler nights, extended growing seasons, and naturally preserved acidity—critical ingredients for nuanced, age-worthy Sangiovese. The estate spans just 12.5 hectares, much of it planted to low-yielding old vines dating back to 1975.

The soils are classically Chiantigiani—galestro, alberese, and sections of pietraforte—yet each parcel behaves differently. Montefili’s philosophy treats every vineyard block as a singular organism, farmed and vinified independently. Even grapes from adjacent plots can yield dramatically different expressions, a diversity embraced rather than blended away.

Montefili farms organically, but the estate is careful to frame sustainability as a mindset rather than a certification. Cover crops, composting, and careful pruning are standard practice, but the deeper commitment lies in biodiversity. Since 2018, detailed biodiversity studies have catalogued wildflowers, insects, and soil life—an approach that informs viticultural decisions rather than decorative claims. Even rare wild orchids have been documented among the vines, a signal of healthy, uncompacted soils. Importantly, Montefili resists the temptation to replant old vines simply for efficiency. When advised to uproot the estate’s prized 1975 plantings, the response was simple: such vines cannot be replaced within a generation. Instead, careful farming coaxes balance and vitality from deeply rooted plants that still have much to say.

Winemaking: Precision Without Recipes

In the cellar, Montefili’s wines are shaped by restraint rather than formula. There is no fixed recipe—vinification choices shift with each harvest, guided by the character of the fruit rather than market expectation. Fermentation and aging are designed to preserve site expression, with minimal intervention and a clear bias toward elegance over power.

Sangiovese is the heart of Montefili, though small plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc exist—remnants of the estate’s earlier era. Even here, the goal is not internationalization, but harmony with the hill. Each wine is intended as a document of place, vintage, and parcel rather than a stylistic benchmark.

Serena Gusmeri: The Steward Behind the Wines

At the center of Montefili’s renaissance stands Serena Gusmeri, winemaker and agronomist. Raised in Lombardy and trained in oenology at the University of Verona, with further studies in Milan and Australia, Gusmeri brings a distinctly holistic sensibility to Tuscany. Her early work in Franciacorta and later in southern Italy sharpened her belief that vineyards should never be forced into uniformity.

Joining Montefili in 2015, Gusmeri found a landscape that immediately resonated. Her philosophy is simple yet uncompromising: each vineyard is unique, and wine should reveal—not correct—that individuality. As one of the few female winemakers in Panzano, she has also become an influential voice for biodiversity and integrity-driven winemaking in Chianti Classico.

Notably, Gusmeri refuses to chase trends. Despite her sparkling-wine pedigree, she has famously declined to produce bubbles at Montefili, instead doubling down on Sangiovese as the truest voice of the site. “We are here for Chianti Classico,” she maintains—a statement that feels more like conviction than limitation. However, Gusmeri does make a white wine at Montefili, a classic Tuscan Chardonnay called Biacone. Like Gusmeri, it is a unique expression, uniting the vineyard, the fruit, and classic winemaking.

A Quiet Standard for Chianti Classico

Vecchie Terre di Montefili represents a compelling model for contemporary Tuscan wine: deeply rooted in history, guided by science and observation, and unburdened by fashion. These are wines that reward patience—both in the vineyard and in the glass—and they stand as persuasive evidence that Chianti Classico’s future is brightest when it honors its highest hills.

For those willing to listen closely, Montefili speaks clearly—and with remarkable grace.

Now for a recap of the evening’s wine tasting dinner.

2024 Vecchie Terre di Montefili, Biacone Chardonnay, Toscana IGT

100 % Chardonnay

Tropical nose with apricot, peach, and floral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with great structure. Citrus palate with grassy, chalky notes. Tight. Long finish. Clean and crisp on the aftertaste. Exceedingly small production – less than 120 cases.

The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.

2021 Vecchie Terre di Montefili, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG

100% Sangiovese

Dark fruit nose with black cherry, anise, and fresh herb hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Black cherry palate with earthy, gamey, and minerally notes. Long finish. Sour cherry aftertaste. Age worthy.

2021 Vecchie Terre di Montefili, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG

100% Sangiovese

Earthy nose with cedar, leather, dried cherry and dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dried cherry palate with crushed violet notes. Long finish. Spicy, dried truffle aftertaste. Huge. Age worthy.

The wine was paired with Uovo Fritto – Crispy Fried Egg, Tuscan Arugula, Pancetta Dressing, Truffle Oil.

2019 Vecchie Terre di Montefili, Vigna nel Bosco, Toscana IGT

100% Sangiovese

Vibrant nose with black cherry, anise and dried strawberry hints. Full-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dark fruit core with Amarena cherry and fresh herb notes. Long finish. Youthful and intense. (Note: Average vine age is 26 years, grown on limestone soil at 1,700’ Above Sea Level. Aged in a single Botti.)

2019 Vecchie Terre di Montefili, Vigna Vecchia, Toscana IGT

100% Sangiovese

Tight nose. Closed. Dark fruit with tobacco and menthol hints. Full-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Sour cherry palate with tobacco and dried herb notes. Long finish. Super tight. Needs so much time. (Note: Average vine age is 45 years, grown on galestro soil. Aged in a single Botti.) Additional Tasting note: after fifteen – twenty minutes the wine finally opened and became almost explosive in the glass. Magnificent!

The wine was paired with Risotto ai Funghi – Creamy Risotto with Forested Mushrooms, Parmigiano.

2019 Vecchie Terre di Montefili, Anfiteatro, Toscana IGT

100% Sangiovese

Vibrant nose with black cherry, blackberry, plum, menthol, and fresh herb hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Black cherry palate with intense, dark fruit concentration. Long finish. Black licorice on the aftertaste. Massive.

2015 Vecchie Terre di Montefili, Anfiteatro, Toscana IGT

100% Sangiovese

Dried cherry nose with cedar, leather and dried strawberry hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dried cherry palate with more cedar and leather notes. Long finish. Dark and brooding. Intense. (Note: Average vine age is 51 years – super low yield.)

The wines were paired with Medaglione di Cervo – Espresso Crusted Venison, Roasted Sweet Potato, Sautéed Spinach, Red Wine Sugo.

2019 San Filippo Le Luceré Riserva Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

100% Sangiovese

Dried cherry nose with mineral, truffle, anise, and cedar hints. Medium—bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core with cherry, plum, and tobacco notes. Long finish. Dried strawberry and anise on the aftertaste. (Note: Highly limited quantity with fewer than 3,000 bottles released and only in the best years.)

The wines were paired with Fileto di Manzo – Beef Tenderloin, Potato Lasagna, Black Truffle Crema, Broccoli Rabe.

The meal was concluded with Torta di Olia Oliva – Warm Tuscan Olive Oil and Orange Cake, Mascarpone Cream, Candied Oranges and Pistachios.

A truly delightful evening with some incredible, cultish wines, another fantastic meal and the delightfully passionate Serena Gusmeri.

As usual, David and his crew pampered all of us and made for another exceptional experience

Thank you!

Cheers!