Vino Italiano, Waltham, MA

I recently had the pleasure of another amazing wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA. The evening featured the wines of San Filippo, curated by the owner, Roberto Giannelli.

Before we dive into the wine tasting itself, let’s explore more about San Filippo.

San Filippo (Brunello di Montalcino)

San Filippo is one of those Brunello estates that quietly went about its business for decades before suddenly becoming a name everyone in Montalcino started talking about. Founded in 1972, the property really came into its modern identity after Roberto Giannelli took over in 2003, reshaping the estate with a clear focus on terroir expression and meticulous vineyard work.

The Estate & Vineyards

San Filippo sits on the eastern side of Montalcino, an area known for excellent drainage and steady diurnal temperature swings—conditions that help Sangiovese retain freshness and aromatic lift. The estate covers 22 hectares, with about 11 hectares under vine, all dedicated primarily to Sangiovese Grosso, with small plantings of Merlot and Syrah for their Sant’Antimo wines.

The vineyards are divided into distinct parcels, each with their own personality:

• Le Lucére — northeast-facing, the crown jewel of the estate; produces the most structured, age-worthy Brunello.
• La Storta — also on the eastern side, contributing finesse and aromatic clarity.
• La Raffiche — a cooler, north-facing site that adds tension and acidity.
• La Smarrita — southwest exposure, bringing warmth and roundness.

Soils here are a classic Montalcino mix of clay, marl, and limestone, giving the wines both backbone and elegance.

Winemaking: Precision with Restraint

San Filippo’s cellar is a blend of modern efficiency and old-school patience. The estate emphasizes naturalness and quality, starting with extremely careful grape selection at harvest. Fermentation begins quickly—within the first eight hours after crushing—and maceration typically lasts about eight days, with regular punch-downs and pump-overs to extract color and structure.

After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine moves to large wooden casks for malolactic fermentation, then spends several years aging in a mix of mid-size and larger oak casks. The approach is deliberately restrained: enough oak to shape the wine, but never enough to overshadow the fruit or the site.

The result is a style that leans toward purity, balance, and elegance, with a clear sense of place.

The Wines

San Filippo produces a focused lineup, but each wine has a distinct role:

• Brunello di Montalcino DOCG — the estate’s flagship, known for red cherry, spice, and earthy notes, with refined tannins and a long, graceful finish.
• Le Lucére Brunello — the single-vineyard star; deeper, more structured, and built for long aging.
• Brunello Riserva — made only in top vintages, with extra depth and longevity.
• Rosso di Montalcino — vibrant, approachable, and a great preview of the Brunello style.
• Sant’Antimo Rosso — a blend that includes Merlot and Syrah, offering a softer, more modern expression.

Across the board, the wines show a signature combination of ripe red fruit, subtle spice, and polished tannins, with the Le Lucére bottlings consistently earning high praise for their structure and aging potential.

More about San Filippo

• The estate’s revival under Giannelli is often cited as one of the more successful “second acts” in Montalcino.
• San Filippo’s cellar includes both a modern vinification area and an aging cellar tucked beneath an old farmhouse—an appealing blend of old and new.
• The wines spend roughly 1,000 days in the cellar before release, a nod to the patience required to craft serious Brunello.

Despite its boutique size, San Filippo has become a favorite among collectors who appreciate Brunello with precision and lift rather than sheer power.

Now for a recap of the evening’s wine tasting dinner, which began with a reprise of the Yves Ruffin Champage, a charming and age worthy bubbly.

Yves Ruffin Racines, Champagne

74% Chardonnay, 26% Pinot Noir

Clean, bright. Yeasty nose with citrus, toffee, toast, and minerally hints. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity. Lemony, yeasty palate with creamy, persistent mousse. Citrus notes. Long finish – tart and refreshing. Delightful.

The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.

2022 Castello di Montepò JeT, Vino Toscana Rosato IGT

100% Sangiovese Grosso (BBS11 Clone)

Perfumed, floral nose with strawberry, and peach hints. Light-bodied with moderate acidity. Crisp. Well-balanced with great structure and nice mid-palate weight. Fresh berries, stone fruit and citrus notes. Long finish – clean and refreshing. Very approachable.

The wine was paired with Uovo Fritto con Melanzana – Crispy Fried Egg, Béchamel Sauce, Roasted Eggplant, Smoked Mozzarella, Micro Greens.

2023 San Filippo Lo Scorno, Rosso di MontalcinoDOC

100% Sangiovese

Black cherry nose with dried herb, dried strawberry and cedar hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannin. Dark fruit core with black cherry, crushed violet, Solid. Long finish. Tight.

The wine was paired with Insalta con Funghi – Pan Roasted Shitake and Oyster Mushrooms, Arugula, Aged Balsamic.

2021 San Filippo Dei Comunali, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

100% Sangiovese

Tight, earthy nose with black cherry, cedar, and mineral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core, tight. Black cherry, cacao, and dark chocolate notes. Long finish. Incredibly tight. Easily 20+ years of aging. (Note: Average vine age is 50 years. Oak aging with 28 months in large oak barrels. Primarily Galestro soil.)

2021 San Filippo Le Luceré Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

100% Sangiovese

Tight nose. Lightly floral with cherry, anise, and violet hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core. Chewy. Black cherry and licorice notes. Long finish. Tight. Dried strawberry on the aftertaste.

The wine was paired with Gnocchi con Ragu – Hand Cut Potato Gnocchi, Veal and San Marzano Tomato Ragu, Parmiggiano.

2019 San Filippo Le Luceré Riserva Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

100% Sangiovese

Dried cherry nose with mineral, truffle, anise, and cedar hints. Medium—bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core with cherry, plum, and tobacco notes. Long finish. Dried strawberry and anise on the aftertaste. (Note: Highly limited quantity with fewer than 3,000 bottles released and only in the best years.)

The wines were paired with Arrosto di MIale – Roast Suckling Pig, Beet Lyonnaise, Rosemary Roast Drippings.

Roberto generously procured a bottle of Vin Santo to enjoy with dessert.

2018 Castello di Querceto, Vin Santo  del  Chianti Classico DOC

100% Sangiovese

Vibrant, exotic nose with burnt orange rind and savory, almond skin hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with moderate tannin. Spice box with vanilla crème anglaise and caramelized brown sugar notes. Long finish. Layered and complex. Contemplative. A true delight.

The meal was concluded with Crostata di Pere – Lemon Vanilla Pears Baked in Phyllo, Moscato Zabaione, Almond Cream and Vanilla Ice Cream.

A truly delightful evening with amazing wines, sumptuous food and passionate stories told by Roberto.

As usual, David and his crew pampered all of us and made for another exceptional experience

Thank you!

Cheers!