Vino Italiano, Waltham, MA

Another lovely wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA. This evening, we enjoyed the incredible wines of Mastroberardino, a centuries-old producer in Campania. curated by the lovely and engaging Aurora Gurrado of Ethica Wines.

As is always the case at Vino Italiano, the wines and accompanying food were spectacular.

If Campania’s wines had a heartbeat, it would pulse from the cellars of Mastroberardino. Nestled in Atripalda, in the province of Avellino, this historic estate has been the region’s standard-bearer for over ten generations, officially founded in 1878 by Angelo Mastroberardino. But the family’s viticultural roots stretch back to the mid-18th century, making them not just winemakers, but stewards of southern Italy’s enological heritage.

While much of Italy flirted with international varietals in the 20th century, Mastroberardino held fast to Campania’s indigenous grapes: Aglianico, Fiano, Greco, Piedirosso, Sciascinoso, many of which were on the brink of extinction after WWII. Antonio Mastroberardino, often called The Grape Archaeologist, led efforts to revive these ancient cultivars, working with ampelographers and historians to ensure their survival.

Mastroberardino’s winemaking philosophy is one of purity, typicity, and longevity, creating distinctive, yet traditional wines:

• Reds like their Taurasi, considered “the Barolo of southern Italy,” are made almost exclusively from Aglianico, often fermented at cooler temperatures and softly pressed to preserve elegance.
• Whites such as Fiano di Avellino Radici and Greco di Tufo NovaSerra are grown at elevations over 1600 feet, ensuring vibrant acidity and aging potential of 10–20 years.
• Even their experimental wines, like Neroametà, a curious white made from the full-throttle red Aglianico grape, reflect a deep curiosity and respect for the land.

Mastroberardino farms over 200 hectares, or 494 acres across Irpinia, with holdings in some of the most renowned sites in Campania. Their vineyards span:

• Montemarano for Taurasi, where Aglianico thrives in volcanic soils
• Santo Stefano del Sole for Fiano, offering high-altitude freshness
• Tufo for Greco, with mineral-rich terrain that imparts salinity and structure

Mastroberardino has also pioneered sustainable viticulture, biodiversity initiatives, and even Sélection Massale grape propagation of pre-phylloxera biotypes to better understand and preserve genetic diversity. Perhaps their most poetic endeavor is the Villa dei Misteri project in Pompeii. Since 1996, Mastroberardino has worked with archaeologists to replant vineyards inside the ancient city using DNA-tested grape seeds and Roman-era techniques. The result are wines that echo the flavors of 79 A.D. This initiative underscores how important Mastroberardino is to the Campania wine region, and other surrounding southern Italian regions.

The following are my notes, along with the amazing dinner that accompanied the wines.

2023 Mastroberardino, Falanghina del Sannio DOC

100% Falanghina

Lightly floral nose with citrus and mineral hints. Light-bodied with firm acidity. Structured. Well-balanced. Tart palate with lemony, fruity notes. Minerally, chalky. Crisp and refreshing. Tight. Edgy. Youthfully vibrant.

The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.

2023 Mastroberardino, Radici, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

100% Fiano

Soft, lightly aromatic nose with apple and granitic hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced. Citrusy palate, tart, with lemony notes. Tight, crisp. Long finish. Pear, Star Anise, and Hazelnut on the aftertaste.

The wine was paired with Burrata Caprese – Fresh Burrata Cheese, Layered Slices of Vine-Ripened Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil.

2023 Mastroberardino NovaSerra, Greco di Tufo DOCG

100% Greco

Nutty, almondy nose with stone fruit hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced. Minerally, granitic palate with pear and apple notes. Long finish. Crisp. Fleshy, citrus, and almond skin on the aftertaste.

The wine was paired with Capesante con Fiore Zuca – Pan-Seared Diver Scallop, Fried Squash Blossom, Saffron Cream.

2022 Mastroberardino, Irpinia Aglianico DOC

100% Aglianico

Earthy nose with black cherry, and dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dark fruit core with Black cherry, plum, spice, and anise notes. Long finish. Tight, smoky aftertaste.

The wine was paired with Gnocchi Sorrentina – Hand-Cut Potato Gnocchi, San Marzano Tomato Ragu, Mozzarella Affumicato.

2019 Mastroberardino Radici, Taurasi DOCG

100% Aglianico

Earthy, vibrant nose with cherry, currant, and black pepper hints. Full-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Sour cherry palate. Herbaceous. Concentrated. Long finish. Black licorice on the aftertaste. Age worthy, with 20+ years potential.

The wine was paired with Agnello Arrosto – Oven Roasted Lamb Chop, Neapolitan Potato Cake, Broccoli Rabe.

The meal was concluded with Biscotti al Limone – Mascarpone Cream, Macerated Summer Berries and Stone Fruit.

Aurora is an elegant and engaging host, with a fiery passion for the wines of Mastroberardino!

And again, David and his crew produced another phenomenal event!

Thank you! Cheers!