Vino Italiano, Waltham, MA
One of the best things about these curated wine dinners at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA, is that the winemakers make frequent return visits. This allows for the establishment of wonderful friendships that continue after the meal is done. This evening, we enjoyed the return of Emanuele Graetz, owner of Isola delle Falcole in Tuscany, producing wines of the highest quality and distinction. Emanuele was his characteristic energetic self, sharing his ebullient personality with everyone in attendance. As is frequently the case, David seats me next to the “star of the evening,” enabling for great conversation and insights. I am fortunate to be treated so fondly and I am humbled that these winemakers, whom I regard as idols, are so down-to-earth and passionate about their work.
As is always the case at Vino Italiano, the wines and accompanying food were spectacular.
The following is from my last blog… After this narrative, I will offer pictures of the new vintages and new menu shared.
Isola delle Falcole was started in 2015, when Emanuele and his two best friends, Alessandro Mannelli and Niccolò Righini purchased a tiny parcel of land between Panzano and Montefioralle, within the famed Chianti Classico DOCG. The name literally translates to “Island of Falcons,” and calls to mind the fact that hawks have long nested in the area. The vineyard is totally southern exposed at between 1,200 and 1,500 feet above sea level. The soil is primarily galestro, a schist and friable marl that is the basis of the best vineyards in Chianti. Organic practices in the vineyard, along with natural wine making techniques, preserve the authenticity of the fruit and ensure that the distinctive characteristics of the property are found in the resulting wines.
Isola delle Falcole makes a tiny production of just over 10,000 bottles. There are three labels: Vecchia Vigna IGT Toscana (6,000 bottles), a blend of Sangiovese, Colorino, Canaiolo, Ciliegolo, Malvasia, and Trebbiano, Gran Selezione Chianti Classico (2,600 bottles), a 100% Sangiovese “Grand Cru” of Chianti, and Merlot IGT Toscana (1,800 bottles), a 100% Merlot powerhouse.
Emanuele is a gracious and passionate host. The wines of Isola delle Falcole reflect his love of Italian wine and his commitment to produce only the finest wines possible. An example of how Emanuele injects his passion into his wines, is the fact that when you line up the three wine labels of Isola delle Falcole, the labels form a painting of the vineyard where the grapes are grown. Remarkable.
The following are my NEW notes, along with the amazing dinner that accompanied the wines.
Yves Ruffin Racines, Champagne
74% Chardonnay, 26% Pinot Noir
Clean, bright. Lightly yeasty with minerally notes. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity. Yeasty palate with creamy, persistent mousse. Citrus notes. Long finish – tart and refreshing. Delightful.
The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.
2021 Isola delle Falcole, Vecchia Vigna, Toscana IGT
70% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Ciliegolo, 5% Malvasia, 5% Trebbiano
Earthy nose. Dried cherry and truffle hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Very young. Aggressive tannins. Tight finish. Black licorice on the aftertaste. Stunning. Very long aging.20+ easily!
The wine was paired with Fiche con Prosciutto – Oven Roasted Fig, Gorgonzola, Balsamic, Micro-Greens, Prosciutto di Parma.
2020 Isola delle Falcole, Vecchia Vigna, Toscana IGT
70% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Ciliegolo, 5% Malvasia, 5% Trebbiano
Massive, brooding with black cherry, earth, and fresh herb hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core with black licorice, and eucalyptus notes. Stunning. Long finish. Layered aftertaste. Tremendous wine. Another 20+ aging wine!
(My note from 2024: Tight, cherry nose with dried herb, floral, and fresh red berry hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dark and brooding with sour cherry, licorice, chalk and fresh herb notes. Stunning. Long finish with crushed rose petals on the aftertaste.)
The wine was paired with Melanzane Fritto – Lightly Fried Eggplant, Plum Tomato Ragu, Smoked Mozzarella, Fresh Basil.
2021 Isola delle Falcole, Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico DOCG
100% Sangiovese
Tight nose. Earthy with crushed violet hints. Gorgeous. Full-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Massive. Dark fruit. Black cherry and black licorice. Tight, but expressive finish. Spectacular. 20+ aging potential.
2019 Isola delle Falcole, Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico DOCG (Magnum)
100% Sangiovese
Tight nose with dried fruit, floral, violet, and anise hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Earthy palate with plum, and dried cherry notes. Delicious. Long finish. Wonderful complexity. Plenty of life left… Definitely shows the aging potential of these Gran Selezione wines.
(My note from 2024: Minerally nose with dusty, red berry, anise, and eucalyptus hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, tight tannins. Dark fruit core with minerality and black cherry notes. Long finish with crushed rose petals on the aftertaste.)
The wine was paired with Risotto con Porcini – Creamy Arborio Rice, Seared Porcini Mushrooms, Parmigiano.
2020 Isola delle Falcole, Merlot, Aure’ Toscana IGT (Magnum)
100% Merlot
Black Cherry, plum and rosemary nose with minerally hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core. Earthy. Black cherry, red currant notes. Charming. Long finish. Tight. Red fruit. 15+ years, easy.
(My note from 2024: Tight plumy nose with restrained fruit and mineral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, tight tannins. Sour cherry palate with spicy, tarry notes. Long finish. Tight, needs some bottle age.)
The wines were paired with Arrosto di Maiale – Slowly Roasted Pork Shoulder with Broccoli Rabe and Roasted Potatoes.
The meal was concluded with Budino ai Lamponi – Warm Raspberry Bread Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream and Lemon Curd.
Another incredible event – David and his crew are the most generous hosts.
I am so happy to be getting to know Emanuele better. We share a passion and vision that is unique, but treasured in wine today. I hope to visit his winery in the Spring of 2026.
(**Special note: Emanuele and I connected the day after the tasting above to discuss a totally new venture… Stay tuned to Musings on the Vine – In September we will be helping to spread the word on a revolutionary new initiative in Tuscany!)
Thank you! Cheers!