Vino Italiano, Waltham, MA
This visit was more than just another lovely wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA. This evening, we enjoyed a very special, and rare treat, the wines of Giacomo Conterno and Conterno Cantine Nervi, quite possibly the most important wine producers in Piedmont. The evening was especially important, being that Roberto Conterno, the founder’s grandson and present owner, had not visited Boston in over 15 years.
Before we dive into the wine tasting itself, let’s explore the grandeur that is Giacomo Conterno.
Giacomo Conterno: The Quiet Giant of Barolo
There are great estates in Piedmont, and then there is Giacomo Conterno—a winery whose very name has become shorthand for the purest expression of traditional Barolo. The story of Conterno begins not with a grand estate but with the founding of a small, local tavern, Cantine Conterno in 1908, where Giovanni Conterno served local wine to travelers passing through San Giuseppe near Monforte d’Alba. From these humble origins emerged a philosophy that would reshape Barolo itself.
A History Built on Patience and Principle
The Conterno family can trace a history of grape growing back to the 18th century, but the modern estate that we adore today, took shape after World War I, when Giacomo Conterno returned home from serving in the war, and began bottling Barolo. Here emerged an unwavering commitment to traditionally styled Barolo of uncompromising quality, made from the finest grapes, on the best sites, and in the best vintages. The extraordinary quality of the wines is a product of several factors: tiny production levels, meticulous viticulture, the exceptional terrior of the Cascina Francia property in Serralunga d’Alba, and Roberto Conterno’s obsessive pursuit of perfection in all aspects of the process. Combined, these factors support Conterno’s global reputation for some of the finest wine in the world.
After Giovanni’s death in 1934, his son Giacomo carried the torch, crafting Barolo in the same resolutely traditional manner—long macerations, wild temperature swings during fermentation, and years (sometimes eight) in large oak casks. For more than half a century, the family purchased grapes from trusted growers, selecting only the most powerful fruit capable of becoming either their normale Barolo, or, their flagship Riserva wine, Monfortino. The wine is named after their home village Monforte d’Alba.
Giacomo Conterno’s sons, Giovanni, Jr. and Aldo Conterno, formally took over the estate in 1961. With the older Giovanni Conterno already responsible for winemaking since the 1959 vintage, Aldo Conterno eventually left the business over conflicting winemaking philosophies and founded his own estate Poderi Aldo Conterno in 1969. While Giacomo Conterno wines represent strictly traditional Barolo winemaking philosophy, Aldo Conterno too shares the view that the “modernist” approach of using small barriques in combination with shorter maceration times undermines the character of Barolo and adds a vanillin sweetness to the wine that overrides the inherent fruit of Nebbiolo.
Giovanni Conterno’s youngest son Roberto began to work by his father’s side in 1988, and after Giovanni Conterno died at 75 in February 2004, Roberto Conterno became, as he describes himself: “the caretaker of my father’s and grandfather’s life work.”
The Vineyards: Francia, Cerretta, and Arione
In 1974 Giovanni Conterno purchased the now legendary Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, bringing an end to the era of purchasing fruit from local farmers. With its steep slopes and iron rich soils, Francia became the spiritual home of the estate. The first vintage of wine made from Conterno’s own vineyard was 1978, though the name Cascina Francia did not appear on the label of the normale until the 1980 vintage.
In 2008 Roberto Conterno purchased land in Serralunga’s Cerretta vineyard, with wine production beginning that same year. In 2015 Roberto bought from Cantina Gigi Rosso the prized nine-hectare Arione vineyard, which is adjacent to Cascina Francia.
Cantine Nervi
Cantine Nervi is the oldest and most well-known estate in the Alto Piemonte area of Gattinara. Roberto Conterno had been a longtime advisor to the estate beginning in 2011. In 2018, Roberto bought a 90% controlling interest in the estate and effectively took control of Cantine Nervi, rebranding the wine as Conterno Cantine Nervi. The inclusion of Nervi in the Conterno portfolio brought new vineyard holdings, Valferana and Molsino, and introduced the exploration of wines made from Spanna (Nebbiolo as it is called in the Alto Piemonte), grown on unique, high-altitude volcanic soils.ested grape seeds and Roman-era techniques. The result are wines that echo the flavors of 79 A.D. This initiative underscores how important Mastroberardino is to the Campania wine region, and other surrounding southern Italian regions.
Now for a recap of the evening’s wine tasting dinner, which began with a rare, 2020 vintage, 100% Nebbiolo Vino Spumante Rosato, aged 36 months sur lees.
The following are my notes, along with the amazing dinner that accompanied the wines.
2020 Conterno Cantine Nervi, “Jefferson” Zero Dosage, Vino Spumante di Qualità Metodo Classico
100% Nebbiolo
Bright, citrus nose, yeasty with peach and apricot hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced – structured, almost tannic. Creamy. More citrus on the palate with wood. Long finish. Clean and refreshing aftertaste.
The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.
2022 Conterno Cantine Nervi, Gattinara DOCG
100% Spanna (Nebbiolo)
Vibrant nose. Bright cherry with violet and anise hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannin. Dark fruit core with black cherry and rose attar notes. Long finish. Anise, cacao, and raspberries on the aftertaste.
The wine was paired with Vitello Tonnato – Thin Sliced Veal Loin, Dressed with Caper-Tuna Aioli and Frisée Salad.
2021 Conterno Cantine Nervi, Vigna Valferana, Gattinara DOCG
100% Spanna (Nebbiolo)
Earthy nose. Dried cherry and dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core with black cherry and mineral notes. Long finish. Tight. Violets, licorice, cherry, and cedar on the aftertaste.
2021 Conterno Cantine Nervi, Vigna Molsino, Gattinara DOCG
100% Spanna (Nebbiolo)
Dark, brooding nose. Black cherry, black licorice and violet hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core with black cherry and dark chocolate hints. Long finish. Sour cherry and dried strawberry on the aftertaste.
The wine was paired with Agnolotti del Plin – Classic Piemontese Hand Made Pasta, Stuffed with Ground Beed and Parmesan with Veal Demi-Glacé.
2021 Giacomo Conterno, Arione, Barolo DOCG
100% Nebbiolo
Dark, brooding nose with black cherry, licorice, fresh herb, ad crushed rose attar hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dark fruit core. Floral, black cherry and cedar notes. Long finish. Anise, dried herbs, and limestone on the aftertaste.
The wine was paired with Tournedos di Vitello – Oven Roasted Veal Loin, Potato Croquette, Broccoli Rabe, Warm Gorgonzola Crema.
2021 Giacomo Conterno, Cerretta, Barolo DOCG
100% Nebbiolo
Spicy, vibrant nose with black cherry, and fresh herb hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core. Dried cherry, and cocoa dust notes. Long finish. Licorice, dried strawberries, and clay on the aftertaste. Delightfully playful!
The wine was paired with Brasato al Barolo – Slowly Braised Beef Short Ribs in Barolo Wine, Creamy Polenta, Pan Wilted Kale.
2021 Giacomo Conterno, Francia, Barolo DOCG
100% Nebbiolo
SDark fruit nose with rose attar, menthol, and fresh herb hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dried cherry with floral, and plum notes. Lovely. Long finish. Anise, and sour cherry on the aftertaste. Charming.
The meal was concluded with Formaggi – Parmigiana Croutons Dipped in Truffled Fonduta, Taleggio and Prosciutto Cotto Croque Monsieur, Baklava di Miele e Gorgonzola Dolce.
A very generous guest brought two of the Monfortino wines in Magnum to share with the group – a gesture of incredible generosity and largesse. The wines capped off a fantastic evening!
1990 Giacomo Conterno, Monfortino, Riserva Barolo DOCG
100% Nebbiolo
Soft nose with dried cherry, dried strawberry, rose petals, and anise hints. Wonderfully complex! Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with well-integrated tannins. Delicate, rarified. Floral. Long finish. A study in beauty and grace.
2002 Giacomo Conterno, Monfortino, Riserva Barolo DOCG
100% Nebbiolo
Vibrant nose with spice, and cedar hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Sour cherry palate with pencil lead, dried strawberry, and dried violet notes. Long finish. Massive. Anise on the aftertaste. Wow – stunning!
My sincere thanks to David, Charles, Gabrielle, and the whole crew for a truly special evening. Hoping to see Roberto and his wines more frequently. Such a precious experience.
Cheers!