Vino Italiano, Waltham, MA

I recently had the pleasure of another amazing wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA. The evening featured the wines of Elio Grasso, curated by the ebullient Gianluca Grasso, Elio’s son.

Before we dive into the wine tasting itself, let’s explore more about Azienda Agricola Elio Grasso.

Elio Grasso: A Family Estate Rooted in Monforte’s Hills

Elio Grasso is a name that resonates quietly but powerfully among lovers of Barolo. Tucked into the steep natural amphitheater of the Gavarini zone in Monforte d’Alba, the estate has spent more than four decades proving that great Nebbiolo is born from patience, humility, and an unwavering respect for the land. The Grasso family has farmed these hills for generations, but the modern chapter began in the late 1970s, when Elio and his wife Marina decided to return to their agricultural roots and vinify their own fruit. Their goal was simple: to honor the vineyards by bottling each parcel separately, letting the land speak in its own voice.

Today, the estate is guided by the next generation—Gianluca and Francesca Grasso—who continue the family’s philosophy with the same quiet rigor that made the wines famous.

The Vineyards: Gavarini and Ginestra, Two Grand Hillsides

The Grasso estate sits within the Ginestra MGA, one of Monforte’s most celebrated zones. Within it lies Gavarini, a south‑facing hillside at roughly 400 meters elevation, composed of Helvetian sandstone and compact clay—soils that give Nebbiolo its signature tension, aromatics, and longevity. The land here forms a natural amphitheater, capturing light and airflow in a way that produces grapes of remarkable purity and structure.

The family’s holdings are almost entirely contiguous, an unusual advantage in Barolo. Key parcels include:

• Gavarini Chiniera — high‑altitude, sandy soils, producing lifted, aromatic, finely etched Barolo.
• Ginestra Casa Maté — deeper clay and sandstone, yielding darker, more powerful, more structured wines.
• Rüncot — a special section of Gavarini, replanted in the 1990s and now the source of the estate’s long‑aged Riserva.

The vineyards are farmed with meticulous care, emphasizing low yields, handwork, and a deep sensitivity to each slope’s microclimate.

Winemaking: Precision Without Ornament

Elio Grasso’s cellar philosophy is rooted in clarity. The family avoids extremes—neither aggressively traditional nor overtly modern. Instead, they follow a balanced approach:

• Separate vinification of each vineyard since 1978, a pioneering move at the time.
• Long fermentations with careful temperature control to preserve aromatics.
• Aging in large Slavonian oak botti for the classic Barolo expressions.
• French barrique aging for the Rüncot Riserva, which spends several years in wood before extended bottle aging.
• Minimal intervention—no shortcuts, no heavy extraction, no attempt to force a style.

The result is a portfolio of wines that are unmistakably Monforte: structured, age‑worthy, and deeply expressive of site.

The Wines: A Focused, Vineyard‑Driven Range

• Barolo Gavarini Chiniera: A wine of finesse and lift, marked by red fruit, rose petals, and fine tannins. Its altitude and sandy soils give it a Burgundian elegance.
• Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté: Darker, denser, and more muscular, with black cherry, licorice, and a firm spine of tannin. A classic expression of Monforte power.
• Barolo Rüncot Riserva: Produced only in top vintages, this is one of the great modern icons of Barolo—rich, layered, and capable of decades of aging. It has earned multiple 100‑point scores and is often one of the most sought‑after wines in the region.

The estate also produces excellent Barbera, Dolcetto, and a standout Langhe Nebbiolo, each treated with the same seriousness as the Barolo crus, and recently, an estate grown Chardonnay, called Educato was added to the cellar and it is a true reflection of how commitment and dedication creates an almost ethereal wine.

Family, Philosophy, and the Quiet Pursuit of Excellence

What sets Elio Grasso apart is not just the quality of the wines but the character of the family behind them. Visitors often remark on the estate’s sense of calm purpose: no flash, no marketing theatrics, just a deep commitment to land and legacy. The Grasso family’s approach—“one step at a time,” as they describe it—has guided every decision, from replanting vineyards to refining cellar practices.

Their holdings were even highlighted in early 20th‑century vineyard maps by historian Lorenzo Fantini, underscoring the long‑recognized quality of these hills.

Today, Gianluca and Francesca carry the torch, ensuring that the estate remains both a guardian of tradition and a model of thoughtful innovation.

In a region filled with legendary names, Elio Grasso stands out for its purity of purpose. The wines are not just delicious—they are benchmarks for how Barolo can express site with precision and soul. For collectors, they offer some of the most reliable aging trajectories in Piedmont. For students of wine, they provide a masterclass in terroir. And for anyone visiting Monforte, the estate’s hillside amphitheater is one of the most beautiful vineyard landscapes in Italy.

Now for a recap of the evening’s wine tasting dinner, which began with the estate grown Chardonnay, a wine which echoes the deep chalky character of fine Chablis.

2024 Elio Grasso, Chardonnay, Educato, Langhe DOC

100% Chardonnay

Bright, citrusy nose with pineapple, floral, and wet stone hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with great structure. Tart palate with salinity and minerality. Lovely. Close your eyes and you are in Chablis. Long finish. Clean and crisp. A pure delight. (Note: Very small production with fewer than 5,000 bottles. No malolactic fermentation and no oak aging. Vineyard in the highest part of Monforte)

The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.

2024 Elio Grasso, Dei Grassi, Dolcetto d’Alba DOC

100% Dolcetto

Fruity and bright nose with cherry and floral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannin. Vibrant palate with sour cherry, tar, and crushed violet notes. Long finish. Easy drinking.

The wine was paired with Vitello Tonnato – Thin Sliced Veal Loin, Dressed with Caper-Tuna Aioli and Frisée Salad.

2021 Elio Grasso, Vigna Martina, Barbera d’Alba DOC

100% Barbera

Bright, fruity nose with cherry, raspberry, and fresh herb hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannin. Dark fruit core with black cherry, blackberry, and rose attar notes. Long finish. Tight. Brooding. Quite nice. Age worthy – 20+ years. (Note: Vineyard has some of the oldest Barbera vines in Monforte. Aged 18 months in oak)

2024 Elio Grasso, Gavarini, Nebbiolo Langhe DOC

100% Nebbiolo

Tight nose with dried cherry, cedar, and dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with moderate tannins. Soft. Dried cherry, dried raspberry, and dried herb notes. Long finish. Soft and floral on the aftertaste.

The wine was paired with Gnocchi ai Funghi – Pan Seared Wild Mushrooms, White Truffle Oil, Shaved Parmiggiano.

2022 Elio Grasso, Gavarini Chiniera, Barolo DOCG

100% Nebbiolo

Tight, closed nose. Dried cherry, and dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with moderate, dry tannins. Sour sherry palate with dried raspberry, floral, and cedar notes. Long finish. Tight. Amarena cherry juice on the aftertaste. It needs time to evolve. (Note: Minerally soil. Vineyard located in the high amphitheater. Vines are 20-25 years old. Entirely destemmed before fermentation. Aged in 25 Hectoliter Slovenian Oak Barrels.)

2022 Elio Grasso, Ginestra Casa Mate, Barolo DOCG

100% Nebbiolo
Tight, earthy nose with dried cherry, and dried violet hints. Medium-bodied with modearate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannin. Dark fruit core. Black cherry and rose attar notes. Brooding. Long finish. Youthful and tight. This wine is a monster and will age forever. (Note: Clay soil, lower altitude. Vines are 60 years old.)

The wines were paired with Scaloppa di Capriolo – Pan Seared Venison Medallion, Sweet Potato Mash, Swiss Chard, Barolo Red Wine Reduction.

2020 Elio Grasso, Rüncot, Riserva Barolo DOCG

100% Nebbiolo

Vibrant nose. Dried cherry, and cedar hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannin. Dark fruit core. Sour cherry, and black licorice notes. Brooding. Long finish. Anise and dried violets on the aftertaste. Incredible. (Note: Barrique aged, entirely new French Oak.)

The wine was paired with Braised Beef Short Ribs – Slowly Braised Beef Short Ribs, Pan Wilted Kale, Creamy Polenta.

The meal was concluded with Crostata di Pere – Lemon Vanilla Pears Baked in Phyllo, Moscato Zabaione, Almond Cream and Vanilla Ice Cream.

Truly a wonderful evening with amazing wines, sumptuous food and incredibly engaging stories told, energetically by Gianluca – a true ambassador for Barolo. As usual, David and his crew pampered all of us and made for another exceptional experience.

Thank you!

Cheers!