Vino Italiano, Waltham, MA

Like the recent Conterno dinner, tonight’s visit was more than just an amazing wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA. The evening featured the wines of Domenico Clerico, curated by his vivacious and passionate niece, Cecilia Rocca, and it was a deeply personal exploration of some of Barolo’s finest wines. Accompanying Cecilia was Crystal Edgar, the brand ambassador for Domenico Clerico, as well as many other fantastic Italian wines!

Before we dive into the wine tasting itself, let’s explore more about Domenico Clerico.

Domenico Clerico: From Humble Beginnings to Barolo Icon

The wines of Domenico Clerico are about passion, commitment, and respect. Passion for the artistry of grape growing and wine making. Commitment to making the best wines possible from the best fruit in Monforte d’Alba. Respect for the land and the subtle vineyard characteristics that impart a uniqueness to Clerico wines. Domenico’s story is a fabulous Piedmont tale: a small family farm, a stubbornly ambitious winemaker, and a handful of vineyards that would become some of the most expressive in Monforte d’Alba.

Domenico took over his father’s modest 4-hectare farm in 1976 with a simple but audacious goal: make the best wine he possibly could from Monforte’s hills. He focused on Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo, and nothing else—no compromises, no distractions. That clarity of purpose shaped everything that followed.

He quickly became known as one of the “modernists” in Barolo, a member of the famed Barolo Boys. But this label never fully captured his true spirit. Yes, Domenico experimented with new oak and technology, but his obsession was always purity of fruit and the voice of the vineyard. He was always looking to improve and elevate his wines. Unfortunately, the world lost Domenico in 2017. By that time, the estate had grown to 21 hectares of prime sites and a global reputation for wines that were both powerful and deeply expressive. His wife Giuliana, his niece Cecilia, and winemaker Oscar Arrivabene now carry the torch.

The Vineyards: Monforte’s Best

Clerico’s genius wasn’t just in the cellar—it was in his instinct for land. He sought out parcels that were undervalued or overlooked and turned them into stars.

A few of his key vineyards:

• Bussia (1977) – Domenico’s first major purchase, a site that gave him the confidence to chase more great vineyards.
• Ginestra & Pajana – These south facing slopes became the backbone of his most famous Barolos, especially Ciabot Mentin and Pajana.
• Mosconi (1995) – Source of Percristina, named for his late daughter; one of the deepest, most structured wines in the portfolio.
• Serralunga (2005) – A newer frontier for the estate, producing the bold and evocatively named Aeroplanservaj (“wild airplane,” a nickname given to Domenico from his father).

Each site has its own personality—Ginestra’s dark, brooding fruit; Pajana’s richness; Mosconi’s power; Serralunga’s iron and depth. Clerico’s wines are a study in how Nebbiolo can shift its voice from vineyard to vineyard.

Winemaking: Modernist Spark, Traditional Soul

Domenico was often grouped with the modernists of Barolo, but his approach was more nuanced than the stereotype suggests.

His hallmarks style includes long macerations to extract depth and structure. In his early career, his use of new French oak to polish the tannins and amplify fruit, and in the latter part of his career experimentation with barriques and larger casks. Domenico was always adjusting and tweaking to elevate and improve, underscoring his relentless curiosity – new technology, adjustments in fermentation, and frequent vineyard trials. Domenico was always in motion. He was never static.

Despite Domenico’s modernist reputation, his wines never lost their sense of place. They’re unmistakably Monforte: muscular, aromatic, and built for the long haul. Although it has been almost ten years since Domenico’s passing, today’s leadership at the Domenico Clerico estate is a continuation of his spirit rather than a departure from it. Today, the winery is guided by the hands of the two people who had long been closest to his work: his wife, Giuliana, and winemaker/general manager Oscar Arrivabene.

Vision for the Future

Giuliana Clerico had been part of the estate from the beginning, working alongside Domenico as he transformed a small family farm into one of Monforte’s most respected producers. After his passing, she became the owner and guiding presence of the winery. Her role is less about changing direction and more about protecting the identity and integrity of what Domenico built. She ensures continuity in philosophy, vineyard stewardship, and the overall vision of the estate.

Giuliana is widely respected in the Langhe for her quiet strength and commitment to honoring Domenico’s legacy without turning the winery into a museum piece. Under her leadership, the winery remains independent, family‑run, and deeply rooted in Monforte’s traditions.

Oscar Arrivabene had already been working closely with Domenico before 2017, so his transition into the role of winemaker and general manager was natural and seamless. He brings a mix of technical precision and sensitivity to terroir – very much in line with Domenico’s own evolution over the years.

Oscar’s hallmarks are about fine‑tuning oak usage to ensure that the vineyard character shines. Oscar maintains the long macerations that define Clerico’s Nebbiolo style, and Oscar passionately pushes for purity, structure, and site expression.

Oscar, like Domenico, is not a radical reinventor; Oscar is a custodian with a forward‑looking mindset, refining rather than rewriting.

The combination of Giuliana’s stewardship and Oscar’s technical leadership has kept the estate firmly in the top tier of Barolo producers. A notable shift that has helped further improve Clerico wines is more restraint in oak usage than in the early “Barolo Boys” era, which aligns with Domenico’s later philosophy. There is also an even greater emphasis on vineyard identity, especially in vineyards like Ginestra, Pajana, and Mosconi. Domenico’s constant quest for better wine is reflected in Giuliana’s and Oscar’s leadership. Their stewardship and subtle innovation helps explain why Clerico’s wines remain so recognizable: they still carry Domenico’s signature intensity and vineyard‑driven character, but with a slightly more polished, contemporary edge. Collectors and educators can confidently present Clerico as a producer whose identity has remained intact while continuing to evolve.

** RECENT UPDATE (March 2026): Oscar is no longer with the winery. Orlando, Cecilia’s brother, will now be taking on work in both the vineyard and the cellar alongside Gianmatteo (Jimmy) Raineri, the longtime cellar master who worked closely with both Domenico and Oscar.

Now for a recap of the evening’s wine tasting dinner, which began not with a Clerico wine, but instead with one of my favorite Soaves from Roccolo Grassi, another fantastic winery represented by Crystal.

2023 Roccolo Grassi La Broia, Soave DOC

100% Garganega

Bright, fruity nose with citrus, floral and vanilla hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced – structured. Fruity palate with apple, lemon, and apricot notes. Long finish. Clean and refreshing aftertaste.

The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.

2022 Domenico Clerico Trevigne, Barbera d’Alba DOC

100% Barbera

Bright cherry nose. Fresh herbs, slate, and plum hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Sour cherry palate with more plum notes. Long finish. Tight with anise on the aftertaste.

The wine was paired with Bruschetta di Fontina Piemontese – Melted Fontina Bruschetta on Frisee Salad Dressed with Warm Piemontese Dressing and Aged Balsamic.

2022 Domenico Clerico Arte, Langhe Rosso DOC

89% Nebbiolo, 10% Barbera

Dried cherry nose with floral and vanilla hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Ripe, yet restrained. Black cherry palate with blackberry and anise notes. Long finish. Herbaceous with sour cherry and rose attar on the aftertaste. Tight.

The wine was paired with Tajarin Ragu – Classic Piemontese Beef Ragu, Handmade Thin Pasta Ribbons, Pecorino.

2024 Domenico Clerico Capisme-e, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC

100% Nebbiolo

Bright cherry nose with sweet, candied hints. Floral. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with moderate tannins. Sour cherry notes. Light in the mouth. Long finish. Fleshy and bright with vanilla on the aftertaste.

2020 Domenico Clerico Monforte d’Alba Barolo DOCG

100% Nebbiolo

Dried cherry nose with floral and cedar hints. Lovely bouquet. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannin. Dark fruit core. Brooding. Sour cherry notes. Long finish. Anise and graphite on the aftertaste.

The wines were paired with Confit di Anitra – Slowly Roasted Duck Leg Confit, Sweet Potato puree, Spinach Strudel.

2021 Domenico Clerico Pajana Barolo DOCG

100% Nebbiolo

Dark, brooding nose. Black cherry, mineral, and floral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannin. Dark fruit core. Cherry, raspberry, and black licorice notes. Long finish. Stunning

2021 Domenico Clerico Aeroplanserval Barolo DOCG

100% Nebbiolo

Tight, closed nose with raspberry, slate, menthol, and dried violet hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannin. Dark fruit core with black cherry, and plum notes. Sour and savory. Long finish. Tight. Anise, rose attar and dried herb on the aftertaste.

The wine was paired with Fileto di Manzo – Oven Roasted Beef Tenderloin, Black Truffle Crema, Potato Croquette, Broccoli Rabe.

2019 Roccolo Grassi, Recioto della Valpolicella

Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina

Cooked fruit nose. Stewed compote with exotic spice box hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannin. Lush. Creamy. Burnt orange rind. Long finish. Spicy and not at all cloying. Wonderful.

The meal was concluded with Budino ai Lamponi – Warm Raspberry Bread Pudding, Vanilla Ice Cream, and Lemon Crème Anglaise.

Truly a wonderful evening and a gracious tribute to a man that has left an indelible mark on Barolo. Cecilia was an engaging storyteller, whose passion for her family’s wines comes through every word. As usual, David and his crew pampered all of us and made for another exceptional experience

Thank you!

Cheers!