Vino Italiano, Waltham, MA
We recently enjoyed a “double-header” wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA, where Salvatore Santus, representing Agricola Punica (https://www.agripunica.it/), and Tommaso Mistretta of Southern Glazer, representing Tenuta San Guido (https://www.tenutasanguido.com/en), were in the house. Agricola Punica and Tenuta San Guido are in their own right, great wines, but they share a unique connection that has benefitted both over the years.
As is always the case at Vino Italiano, the wines and accompanying food were spectacular.
Sardinia, an island off the coast of Italy, approximately at the same latitude as Rome, has been an important part of Italian history. Wine making has always been a part of Sardinian history, with the Phoenicians likely bringing the first noble varietal to the island in the form of the Carignano, or Carignan grape. The region on Sardinia best suited for grape production is the Southern Sulcis, which has earned the important Isola dei Nuraghi IGT designation. The name of the IGT refers to the ancient stone towers built by the Nuragic Civilization , which was present on the island from the neolithic period until about 238 BC, when Sardinia fell under Roman rule. It was under the Romans that cultivation of the vine thrived. Despite this important history of grape growing and wine making, Sardinia was largely pushed aside by better marketed, and economically stronger regions like Tuscany and Piedmont.
in 2002, Agricola Punica acquired two properties in the Southern Sulcis, Barrua and Narcao comprised of approximately 170 hectares (420 acres). The acquisition was a result of a joint venture between the Tenuta San Guido Group, the Cantina di Santadi, Antonello Pilloni president of the Cantina and the legendary Tuscan winemaker Giacomo Tachis. It was the latter who believed Sardinia to have ideal grape-growing conditions, and convinced some of the most important business people in Italian wine, that they could produce a fantastic wine from grapes grown in Sulcis.
The properties acquired in Sulcis had 15 hectares of 12 year-old Carignan and 50 hectares of other European varietals. The vineyards were on deep soils rich in clay. Climatologically, the southern part of Sardinia is a grape growing paradise with mild winters and dry, hot summers. The boundless amount of sunlight contributes to the optimal ripening of the grape and is a large part of what gives the Sulcis such potential.
It is the partnership of two Tuscan giants, Giacomo Tachis and Tenuta San Guido, that fueled the development of the Sulcis.
Giacomo Tachis is largely regarded as the father of Super Tuscan wines, having been a major contributor to some of the most influential Italian red wines of the 70’s, 80’s, and 90’s, notably Sassicaia, Solaia, Tignanello, San Leonardo, and Turriga. It was Tachis belief in the extraordinary potential of the Sulcis that laid the foundation for Agricola Punica.
Tenuta San Guido, the estate behind Sassicaia, is a powerhouse of Super Tuscan wine, whose philosophy is summed up by their founder, Mario Incisa della Rochetta in his book La Terra è Viva. “The only motive of all the ideas I shall try to explain is my unlimited respect for Nature, in all of its forms, in all of its mysteries, in all of its miracles we are discovering little by little and that we shall never desist from admiring.” The vision and mission of Tenuta San Guido is about preservation and development. Sustainability and ecological balance are at the center of Tenuta San Guido’s operating tenets.
Currently, Agricola Punica produces three noteworthy wines Two reds: Barrau and Montessu; and one white: Samas. All three are in the Isola dei Nuraghi IGT region.
Samas is a refreshing white wine comprised of 80% Vermentino and 20% Chardonnay. The vineyards are composed of primarily medium-textured calcareous, clay, and sandy soils. The climate is hot and dry. Harvesting takes place from mid-August to mid-September. Vinification is done at low temperature in the early morning to preserve the delicacy of the grape’s aromas and flavors. Prolonged fermentation on the lees is meant to promote complexity. The two varietals are vinified separately and then blended and finished for 3 months in concrete vats. The wine is not filtered, nor clarified.
Montessu is a hearty red wine comprised of 60% Carignano, 10% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Merlot. The vineyards are also composed of primarily medium-textured calcareous, clay, and sandy soils. The climate is hot and dry. Harvesting takes place from mid-September to mid-October. The finished wine is aged for 12 months in French barriques.
Barrua is also a hearty red wine comprised of 85% Carignano, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot. The vineyards are also composed of primarily medium-textured calcareous, clay, and sandy soils. The climate is consistently hot and dry. Harvesting takes place from mid-September to mid-October. The finished wine is aged for 18months in French barriques, and then bottle-aged an additional 6 months to soften and integrate the wine.
The following are my notes, along with the amazing dinner that accompanied the wines.
2024 Agricola Punica Samas, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT
80% Vermentino, 20% Chardonnay
Lemony nose with floral, minerally hints. Pretty. Light-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced. Tart. Structured. Citrus palate with chalk and pear notes. Crisp and refreshing. Long, clean finish.
The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.
And with…
The wine was paired with Tuna Crostone – Tuna Crudo with Avocado, Micro-Greens, Citrus Marinade, Crostone.
2022 Agricola Punica Montessu, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT
60% Carignano, 10% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot
Earthy nose with fruity, bright cherry and floral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dark fruit core with anise and black cherry notes. Long finish. Tight and crisp. Needs time.
2020 Agricola Punica Barrua, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT
85% Carignano, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot
Earthy nose. Dark, minerally, black cherry hints. Full-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Dark fruit core with black cherry and dark chocolate notes. Long finish. Tight. Black pepper. Needs time.
The wine was paired with Gnocchi con Funghi – House Made Potato Gnocchi, Wild Mushrooms, Parmigiano, Truffle Oil.
2023 Tenuta San Guido, Le Difese, Toscana IGT
65% Sangiovese, 35% Cabernet Franc
Bright cherry nose with crushed rose petal, anise, and mineral hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Tart, sour cherry palate. Spicy. Long finish. Tart on the aftertaste.
The wine was paired with Halibut Puttanesca – Pan-Seared Halibut Filet with Plum Tomato, Black Olive, and Caper Sugo.
2023 Tenuta San Guido, Guidalberto, Toscana IGT
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot
Dark nose with crushed violet, black cherry and earthy hints. Full-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dark fruit core with cherry and plum notes. Long finish. Tight. Amarena cherry on the aftertaste. Concentrated. Intense.
The wine was paired with Arrosto di Maiale – Slowly Roasted Pork Shoulder with Broccoli Rabe and Roasted Potatoes.
The meal was capped of with Crostata di Rabarbaro e Fragola – Crispy Pastry with Rhubarb and Strawberries with Orange Creme Anglaise, Honey Oat Crunch, Vanilla Ice Cream.
Salvatore Santus was a gracious and passionate host, instilling passion for the wines of Agricola Punica. I can’t wait to visit him in Sardinia!
Tommaso Mistretta was the consummate ambassador for the wines of Tenuta San Guido. With his ebullient and entertaining personality, he brought the passionate philosophies of the winery everyone in attendance.
Once again, David and his crew produced another phenomenal event!
Thank you! Cheers!