Vino Italiano, Waltham MA
Another lovely wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA. This evening, we enjoyed the incredible wines of Casanova di Neri (https://www.casanovadineri.wine/), one of Tuscany’s most heralded, modern wineries. Our hosts for the evening were one of the owners, Gianlorenzo Neri, grandson of the founder Giovanni Neri, along with Aurora Gurrado, lead representative from Ethica Wines, their importer.
Casanova di Neri is a relatively new winery, founded in 1971 by Giovanni Neri, on an older estate called Podere Casanova in the heart of Montalcino. At the time, the area was still suffering from the negative effects of depopulation following World War II, so many well-regarded properties were available for sale at very reasonable prices. Growing grapes and making wine was not without risk, though, so it took a new generation of brave wine makers to begin the process of making Montalcino great again. Giovanni, with the help of a few local winemakers, begins replanting and cleaning up the estate and in 1977 he is rewarded with his first wine, a Rosso di Montalcino, and then in 1978, his first Brunello di Montalcino. The wines are traditional style and of great quality.
In 1981, Giovanni purchases another vineyard, Cerretalto, which, according to their website, “is located in a natural amphitheater along the banks of the Asso River, where prized white truffles also grow, an undisputed sign of the purity of the soil.” The story goes on to say, “that the combination of that particular microclimate, the composition of the soil rich in iron and magnesium and the Sangiovese vines already present in the vineyard for a long time, are the key to producing a great Brunello, the result of the selection of grapes from a single vineyard.” Wine of the Cerretalto vineyard is only produced in truly great vintages.
In 1986, Giacomo Neri, son of Giovanni joins in the work of producing and further refining the wines of Casanova di Neri. One year later, their renowned flagship wine, the White Label Brunello di Montalcino, wines gold at the Challenge du Vin in Bordeaux. In this same year, their first vintage of Cerretalto is also released to wild acclaim. Sadly, in 1991 Giovanni passes away leaving Giacomo the sole owner of Casanova di Neri.
In 1993, the Tenuta Nuova wine is first made from Brunello grown on the Le Cetine vineyard. According to their website, “this is the first step that Casanova di Neri has taken in the southern area of the denomination. The Le Cetine vineyard stands out for the wealth of botanical varieties present, which are those that characterize the Mediterranean scrub: myrtle, mastic, thyme, broom, juniper and privet.” In 1994, Casanova di Neri begins their exploration of the Super Tuscan category, when, according to their website, a new vineyard is purchased called “Pietradonice, in the area south of Montalcino, near the ancient Abbey of Sant’Antimo. The name given to this vineyard is inspired by the large quantity of onyx present in the soil.” As noted, “Giacomo decides to plant Cabernet Sauvignon because he is certain that this solution can be proof of the fact that a unique terroir in Montalcino can convey its best expression in the glass even if it is not Sangiovese.” In this same year, the 1988 Cerretalto was awarded the Tre Bicchieri by the trend-setting Italian wine guide “Vini d’Italia” published by Gambero Rosso.
In the following decade, Casanova di Neri enjoys many great accomplishments. A new winery and visitor center are constructed, further vineyard expansion solidifies a supply of great Brunello, and in 2006, their 2001 Tenuta Nuova wine is awarded Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator magazine. A year later, the 2001 Cerretalto is awarded 100 points by Wine Spectator magazine, beginning a long line of 100 point wines.
In 2012 Giovanni, Giacomo’s oldest son joins him in the work, to be quickly followed in 2017 with Gianlorenzo joining the family endeavors, which now include the opening of a Relais with “ten suites offering a 360° view of the Montalcino panorama, surrounded by vineyards, in front of the cellar.” A year later in 2018, according to their website, “Casanova di Neri purchases the seven-hectare Tocci vineyard, in the south-east area of Montalcino. A splendid, unique vineyard, with 45-year-old vines. The first harvest leads to the production of the first vintage of Giovanni Neri, dedicated to the founder, the fourth Brunello di Casanova di Neri.”
In 2021, Casanova di Neri celebrated their 50th Anniversary, with a half-century of phenomenal achievement, all born from the vision of their founder Giovanni Neri, passionately nurtured by successive generations. The future is very bright for Casanova di Neri, and tonight was a glimpse into just how bright the future will be!
The following are my notes, along with the amazing dinner that accompanied the wines.
2023 Mastroberardino, Falanghina, Falanghina dei Sannio DOC
100% Falanghina
Lightly floral nose with lemon, citrus, and mineral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced and elegantly structured. Crisp and clean on the palate with a refreshing, lemony aftertaste. Great value.
The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.
2020 Casanova di Neri, Pietradonice, Toscana IGT
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Earthy nose with dark fruit, black cherry, and anise hints. Full-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Herbaceous palate with sour, dried cherry, and cedar notes. Leather and resin. Long finish. Layered with cedar, anise, and lavender on the aftertaste.
The wine was paired with Eggplant Terrine – Smoked Mozzarella, Plum Tomato Ragu and Basil.
2019 Casanova di Neri, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
100% Sangiovese Grosso
Tight, earthy nose with dried cherry, and violet hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dark fruit palate with black cherry, plum and cedar notes. Delicious. Long finish. Tight and brooding on the aftertaste. Stunning.
2020 Casanova di Neri, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
100% Sangiovese Grosso
Tight nose with dried herbs, anise, and violet hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Sour cherry, fresh herb and cedar notes. Long finish. Tight aftertaste.
The wines were paired with Risotto con Funghi – Creamy Arborio Rice, Morel Mushrooms, Parmigiano.
2020 Casanova di Neri, Tenuta Nuova, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
100% Sangiovese Grosso
Earthy, minerally nose with bright cherry, anise, and lavender hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, tight tannins. Incredible palate. Massive, dark fruit core – almost jammy. Long finish. Anise, and crushed violets and rose petals on the aftertaste. Remarkable.
The wines were paired with Carne di Cervo – Herbed Venison Medallion, Roasted Sweet Potato, Red Wine Sugo.
2018 Casanova di Neri, Giovanni Neri, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
100% Sangiovese Grosso
Vibrant nose. Powerful. Black cherry, allspice, and cedar hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Massive. Dark fruit core. Tight. Sour cherry, cedar, dried herb, and dried violet notes. Long finish. Simply amazing. Wow!
2018 Casanova di Neri, Cerretalto, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
100% Sangiovese Grosso
Tight nose with dried violet, black cherry, and plum hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Sour cherry, dried herb, cedar, and dried rose petal notes. Long finish. Tight. Massive. Stony. Youthful and needs time to emerge.
The wine was paired with Arrosto di Maiale – Slowly Roasted Pork Shoulder with Broccoli Rabe and Roasted Potatoes.
The evening was spectacular! Once again, David and his crew at Vino Italiano outdid themselves again.
Thank you! Cheers!