Vino Italiano, Waltham MA
Another lovely wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA. This evening, we enjoyed the amazing wines of Buglioni (https://www.buglioni.it/en/home), a rising star in the Veneto, specifically Verona, showcasing decidedly fresh, and modern wines. Our host for the evening was the co-owner, Mariano Buglioni, son of the founder Alfredo Buglioni.
Buglioni is a relatively young winery in the context of the Veneto. Situated in Verona, and primarily producing Valpolicella wines, Buglioni began their journey in 1993, when Alfredo Buglioni purchased a villa in Valpolicella Classico. Being averse to neighbors and impressed with the beauty of the surrounding vineyards, Alfredo purchased the 8.5 acres of vines around the property. The Buglioni were successful textile merchants, and not grape growers or winemakers, so for the first several years, they traded their grapes for knowledge. Eventually, in 2000 they released their first vintage, renovated the farmhouse and underground cellar, hired a graduate of the prestigious Oenology Institute of San Michele all’Adige, Diego Bertoni and slowly, over the ensuing decades, amassed over 153 acres of additional vineyards, all of which are certified organic (2019).
In addition, in 2005, as a means of promoting their wines, Buglioni converted one of their shops in the center of Verona to an exciting wine bar called, Osteria del Bugiardo (https://osteriadelbugiardo.it/), or the Liar’s Tavern.
There is a Wine Relais, Dimora (https://www.dimorabuglioni.it/) overlooking the vineyards of Buglioni, providing a pampered, one-of-a-kind experience for the discerning wine lover.
The vineyards of Buglioni are comprised of acreage in three major areas: Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella (35 Hectares), Corrubbio di Negarine (Valpolicella) (15 Hectares), and Lugana (5 Hectares). The vineyards are planted with the indigenous varietals Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, and Trebbiano di Lugana (which is actually Verdicchio), and practice traditional trellising and viticultural techniques.
In the fully renovated wine cellar, modernized techniques and tools create a synergy of nature and science that produces wines of elegance and balance. Destemming in January, with vinification in ceramic amphorae followed by gentle aging in large, oak tonneaux brings forth the true expression of the grape and vineyard.
The following are my notes, along with the amazing dinner that accompanied the wines.
2024 Feudo Macari, Rosé di Neré, Terre Sicilianoe IGT
100% Nero d’Avola
Dried strawberries, lightly floral nose with lemon and white pepper hints. Light-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced. Tart palate with sour cherries, citrus and wet stone notes. Long finish. Crisp and clean.
The wine was paired with an assortment of passed Italian Antipasti.
2023 Buglioni, Gabriella, Lugana DOC
100% Trebbiano di Lugana (Verdicchio)
Earthy nose with grapefruit and lemon hints. Tight. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced. Tart, citrus palate with wet stone notes. Long finish. Gamey, chalky aftertaste.
The wine was paired with Insalata di Porchetta – Slow-Roasted Loin of Pork on Frisee Salad, Drizzled with Vin Cotto.
2021 Buglioni, (I’m)Perfetto, Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC
Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina
Earthy nose, with dried cherry and leather hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with moderate, dry tannins. Sour cherry palate with red currant and dried herb notes. Gamey and bright. Long finish. Tight. Red berry and anise on the aftertaste.
The wines were paired with Strozzapretti Pasta con Coniglio – Slowly-Braised Rabbit and Red Wine Sugo, Dry Cherries, Ricotta Salata.
2022 Buglioni, Il Bugiardo, Vino Ripasso, Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC
Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina, Oseleta
Eathy, tight nose with dried cherry, cedar, and dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Bright, fruity palate with sour cherry, allspice, and tarry notes.Lovely. Long finish. Crushed violets and dried spices on the aftertaste.
The wines were paired with Anitra alla Confit, Duck Leg Confit, Roasted Sweet Potato, Pan Wilted Swiss Chard.
2019 Buglioni, Il Lussurioso, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG
Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina, Oseleta
Tight nose with dried fruit and allspice hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dark fruit core with chocolate, spice box, and cedar notes. Charming and seductive. Long finish. Layered and endless. Wow!
The wines were paired with Tournedo di Manzo alla Brace, Beef Tenderloin, Potato Lasagna, Broccoli Rabe, Amarone Red Wine Sugo.
2019 Buglioni, Il Narcisista, Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOCG
Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina
Dried cherry nose with spicy, cooked fruit hints. Lovely nose – floral. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Lush and elegant palate. Sweet, Amarena cherry compote. Long finish. Delightful!
The meal was concluded with Crostata di Rabarbaro e Fragola – Crispy Pastry with Rhubarb and Strawberries with Orange Crème Anglaise, Honey-Oat Crunch, Vanilla Ice Cream.
The evening was spectacular! Once again, David and his crew at Vino Italiano outdid themselves yet again. Just when you thought they couldn’t top the last dinner, another stunning meal comes from the kitchen.
Thank you! Cheers!