Tenuta delle Terre Nere is a benchmark producer on Mount Etna, known for its Burgundian approach to volcanic terroir and its elegant, age-worthy wines from ancient vines. Recently, a group of Musings followers gathered to taste a unique set of verticals from this esteemed estate.

Before we look at the flight, here is an overview of the region of Sicily, where Tenuta delle Terre Nere originates.

Sicily

Sicily is one of Europe’s oldest and most dynamic wine regions, blending 6,000 years of history with volcanic terroir and a resurgence in quality-focused winemaking.

Historical Context

• Ancient Origins: Wine production dates back to at least 4000 BCE, with early cultivation by the Sicani, Siculi, and Elymians.
• Phoenician & Greek Influence: Phoenicians introduced viticulture to western Sicily around 800 BCE; Greeks expanded it in the east, calling Sicily Oenotria—“land of vines.”
• Roman Era: Sicily became a key supplier of wine to the Roman Empire. Julius Caesar favored Mamertino from Messina.
• Arab & Norman Periods: Despite interruptions, winemaking persisted and evolved under successive rulers, including Arabs, Normans, and Spaniards.
• British & Marsala: In the 18th century, British merchants like John Woodhouse developed Marsala as a fortified wine, popularized even by Thomas Jefferson.

Sicily – Grapes

Sicily – Grapes
White	Red
Carricante	Nerello Macalese
Catarratto	Frappato
Grillo	Perricone
Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria)	Nero d’Avola

Sicily – Regions

Sicily has (23) DOCs and (1) DOCG (Cerasuolo di Vittoria), with three major zones:

• Etna (East): High-altitude vineyards on volcanic soil that produce elegant, mineral-driven reds and whites.
• Vittoria (Southeast): Sunny and warm, ideal for fragrant reds like Frappato and the Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend.
• Marsala (West): Coastal limestone soils yield structured whites and the famous fortified Marsala wine.

The overarching Sicilia DOC (est. 2011) promotes native grapes and quality standards across the island.

Sicily – DOC Wines
Alcamo	Noto
Contessa Entellina	Pantelleria
Contea di Sclafani	Riesi
Delia Nivolelli	Salaparuta
Eloro	Santa Margherita di Belice
Etna	Sambuca di Sicilia
Faro	Sciacca
Malvasia delle Lipari	Siracusa
Mamertino	Vittoria
Marsala	Erice
Menfi	Sicilia
Monreale

Sicily – IGT Wines
Terre Siciliane	Fontanarossa di Cerda
Avola	Salemi
Camarro	Valle del Belice

Now let’s look at Tenuta delle Terre Nere in more details.

History & Philosophy

• Founded by Marc de Grazia, a key figure in Italian wine export and a passionate advocate for Etna’s potential.
• Established in the early 2000s, though de Grazia had been working in the region since the 1990s.
• The estate’s ethos is rooted in respect for nature, minimal intervention, and terroir transparency. De Grazia describes Etna as “an island within an island,” where nature is both generous and severe.

Vineyards & Terroir

• Located on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, between 600 and 1,000 meters above sea level—among the highest vineyards in Europe.
• The estate spans 43 hectares, including parcels in renowned contrade (crus) such as:
  • Calderara Sottana – rocky soils, includes 1.5 ha of pre-phylloxera vines over 130 years old.
  • Guardiola – the highest red grape vineyards in Europe, with dramatic diurnal shifts.
  • Feudo di Mezzo and San Lorenzo – each with distinct volcanic compositions.
• Soils are volcanic ash, pumice, and basalt, with extreme variation even between neighboring plots.
• All vineyards are organically farmed, with some parcels undergoing replanting after resting the soil.

Winemaking Techniques

• Inspired by Burgundian methods, emphasizing site expression over manipulation.
• Grapes are hand-harvested, sorted, and fermented with native yeasts.
• Maceration lasts 10–15 days, followed by malolactic fermentation and aging in French oak (25% new).
• Wines are typically bottled after 18 months, with minimal filtration.
• The goal is to preserve the purity and elegance of Etna’s high-altitude fruit.

Wines Produced

Tenuta delle Terre Nere focuses on indigenous varieties and single-vineyard bottlings:

Red Wines (Nerello Mascalese-based)

• Etna Rosso DOC – entry-level blend from multiple sites.
• Single-Cru Etna Rosso:
  • Calderara Sottana
  • Guardiola
  • Feudo di Mezzo
  • San Lorenzo
• Prephylloxera Calderara Sottana – from ungrafted vines over 130 years old.

White Wines

• Etna Bianco DOC – primarily Carricante, with some Catarratto.
• Etna Bianco Superiore – from the Milo zone, the only area permitted for this designation.

Rosato

• A delicate, mineral-driven Etna Rosato, also based on Nerello Mascalese.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere has helped redefine Sicilian wine, elevating Etna to global prominence. Their wines are prized for their transparency, finesse, and volcanic soul—a true expression of place.

Here’s a detailed overview of the estate’s key crus, with soil, elevation, microclimate, and distinguishing features:

Overview of Key Contrade (Single-Cru Vineyards)

Contrada	Elevation	Soil Composition	Distinguishing Features
Calderara Sottana	600–700 m	Extremely rocky; black pumice, volcanic ash, basalt	Home to La Vigna di Don Peppino, a pre-phylloxera parcel over 140 years old
Guardiola	800–1,000 m	Volcanic ash, fine gravel, basalt	Highest red grape vineyard in Europe; dramatic diurnal shifts; airy and exposed
Feudo di Mezzo	~700 m	Mixed volcanic soils; less rocky than Calderara	Balanced exposure; elegant, mineral-driven wines
San Lorenzo	750–800 m	Volcanic ash with sandy texture	Produces structured, age-worthy wines with floral lift
Santo Spirito	~700 m	Rich volcanic soils with good drainage	Softer, more voluptuous wines; warmer microclimate
Montalto (Carricante)	900–950 m (South slope)	Deep volcanic ash, loose with small stones	Exceptional freshness; southern exposure balanced by constant breeze

Soil & Geology

• Volcanic diversity: Etna’s eruptions over 500,000 years created radical soil variation—even between neighboring plots.
• Rocky terrain: Calderara Sottana is so strewn with volcanic rock that it’s nearly impossible to walk through.
• Silicon-rich soil: Helped preserve ungrafted vines from phylloxera, especially in Calderara.

Microclimate & Exposure

• Airiness: Many crus are fully exposed to wind, which dries grapes after autumn rains and reduces mildew risk.
• Diurnal shifts: Elevation yields dramatic temperature swings between day and night, preserving acidity and finesse.
• Late harvest: Grapes are picked in late October, requiring healthy airflow and careful vineyard management.

Vineyard Layout & Maps

• The estate spans 45 hectares across 30 plots, concentrated on the northern slopes of Etna between Solicchiata and Randazzo.
• Crus are arranged along a hilly belt, with elevation rising from 600 to 1,000 meters.
• Calderara Sottana lies lower and westward; Guardiola and San Lorenzo are higher and more easterly.
• Feudo di Mezzo sits centrally, often used for blending due to its balanced profile.
• Montalto, though not officially a contrada, lies on the southern slope, producing exceptional Carricante whites.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere – The Flight

2021 Santo Spirito Etna Bianco

2023 Santo Spirito Etna Bianco

2023 Calderara Sottana Etna Biano

2018 Moganazzi Etna Rosso

2022 Moganazzi Etna Rosso

2018 Santo Spirito Etna Rosso

2020 Santo Spirito Etna Rosso

2022 Santo Spirito Etna Rosso

2020 San Lorenzo Etna Rosso

2022 San Lorenzo Etna Rosso

2018 Prephylloxera – La Vigna di Don Peppino Etna Rosso

2020 Prephylloxera – La Vigna di Don Peppino Etna Rosso

2022 Prephylloxera – La Vigna di Don Peppino Etna Rosso

2020 Guardiola Etna Rosso

2022 Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso

2022 Dagala di Bocca d’Orzo Etna Rosso

2022 Feudo di Mezzo Il Quadro delle Rose Etna Rosso

Tenuta delle Terre Nere – The Cheese

Robiola Rocchetta

Robiola Rocchetta comes from the Piedmont region of Italy. It is a lovely and creamy robiola combining the flavors of goat’s, cow’s and sheep’s milk into a harmonious balance of flavor. Dense, semi-soft and smooth in texture, Robiola Rocchetta is a very approachable cheese of exquisite quality.   

Country: Italy

Milk Type: Mixed

Cheese Type: Soft

Piave Vecchio

Piave is named after the river Piave, whose source is found at Mount Peralba in Val Visdende, in the northernmost part of the province of Veneto, Italy. The land surrounding the ancient river is integral to the character of the cheese: it is where the milk is collected, the curd cooked, and the cheese aged until hard. Piave has an intense, full-bodied flavor, reminiscent of Parmigiano Reggiano that intensifies with age and makes this cheese absolutely unique.  

Country: Italy

Milk Type: Cow

Cheese Type: Washed-Rind

Fontina Val d’Aosta

Fontina Val d’Aosta is an Italian cheese made in the Aosta Valley in the Italian Alps, known for its nutty, buttery flavor and excellent melting properties. It’s a semi-hard, raw cow’s milk cheese with a pale straw color and a few small holes. The cheese is typically aged for 90 days, and the flavor develops with age, becoming richer and sharper.

Country: Italy

Milk Type: Cow

Cheese Type: Semi-Hard

Gorgonzola Cremificato

Gorgonzola Cremificato is a creamy cow’s milk blue of quality unrivaled by other young or “dolce” Gorgonzolas. Although inoculated with the same blue mold found in spicier blues like Roquefort, this delicate, soft, and unctuous blue is mild and subtly sweet with fresh, grassy undertones.

Country: Italy

Milk Type: Cow

Cheese Type: Blue-Veined