We recently gathered a group of Musing followers together to taste a wonderful flight of Mature Bordeaux wines. Ranging in vintage from 1970 through 2005, the flight featured some pretty amazing wines. Overall impression – not a bad wine in the group. Some were clearly a little past their peak, but none of the wines were dead. This writer felt that the 1971 Château Beychevelle still had as many as ten or more years to go!
Before we look at the flight, here is an overview about Bordeaux.
The origins of the Bordeaux wine trade began in 1152, which coincided with Eleanor of Aquitaine’s marriage to King Henry II of England. This marriage is one reason why so many French Chateaux and Negociant owners are of English origin. The region is located in southwest France along the Gironde estuary, and Garonne and Dordogne rivers. Easy access to the Atlantic has made Bordeaux an important city in France’s global wine trade.
Some interesting statistics:
- Over 280,000 acres have been planted to vineyards.
- 85% of vineyards are planted with red grape varieties.
- 57 total appellations in Bordeaux
- 26% of all AOC wines originate in Bordeaux.
- Over 60 million cases of wine made per year (on average)
Three major areas:
- Left Bank (West of the Gironde & Garonne rivers)
Medóc – North
Graves – South
Soil Composition: Gravel, Sand & Pebbles
- Right Bank (East of the Gironde & Dordogne rivers)
Pomerol – North
St.-Émilion – South
Soil Composition: Clay, Chalk, Sand & Some Gravel
- Entre-Deux-Mers (Between the Garonne & Dordogne rivers)
Soil Composition: Clay, Sand & Some Gravel
Six major “families” of wine:
- Bordeaux & Bordeaux Supérieur
- Côtes
- Graves & Médoc
- St. Emilion, Pomerol, & Fronsac
- Dry White
- Sweet White
Bordeaux – Grapes
Principal Grape Varieties:
| Reds: | Whites: |
| Cabernet Sauvignon (Primarily Left Bank) | Semillon (Primarily Graves & Entre-Deux-Mers) |
| Merlot (Primarily Right Bank) | Sauvignon Blanc (Primarily Graves & Entre- Deux-Mers) |
| Cabernet Franc | Muscadelle |
| Petite Verdot | |
| Malbec |
Bordeaux – AOC
- Left Bank
| Haut-Medóc | Medóc |
| St.-Estèphe | Graves |
| Pauillac | Pessac-Léognan |
| St.-Julien | Sauternes (Sweet) |
| Listrac | Barsac (Sweet) |
| Moulis | Cerons (Sweet) |
| Margaux |
- Entre-Deux-Mers
| Cotes de Bordeaux | Loupiac (Sweet) |
| Ste.-Croix du Mont (Sweet) | Cadillac (Sweet) |
- Right Bank
| Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux | St.-Émilion |
| Côtes de Bourg | Montagne-St.-Émilion |
| Côtes de Blaye | Lussac-St.-Émilion |
| Côtes du Castillon | St.-Georges-St.-Émilion |
| Bordeaux Côtes de Francs | Puisseguin-St.-Émilion |
| Côtes de Bordeaux Saint-Macaire | Fronsac |
| Canon-Fronsac | |
| Pomerol | |
| Lalande-de-Pomerol |
Bordeaux – Classifications
The Classification of 1855
- Most famous; A list of the best wines in the Medóc ordered by price
–Five levels called crus or “growths”
–Ranked only 87 properties (60 Medóc, 1 Graves, 26 Sauternes/Barsac)
–Only updated once (1973 – Elevation of Mouton-Rothchilds to First Growth)
MÉDOC FIRST GROWTHS (PREMIERS CRUS):
| Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) | Château Margaux (Margaux) |
| Château Latour (Pauillac) | Château Haut-Brion Pessac (Graves) |
| Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) |
MÉDOC SECOND GROWTHS (DEUXIEMES CRUS):
| Château Rausan-Ségla (Margaux) | Château Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux) |
| Château Léoville-Las Cases (Saint-Julien) | Château Léoville-Poyferré (Saint-Julien) |
| Château Léoville-Barton (Saint-Julien) | Château Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) |
| Château Gruaud-Larose (Saint-Julien) | Château Lascombes (Margaux) |
| Château Brane-Cantenac Cantenac (Margaux) | Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron (Pauillac) |
| Château Pichon-Longueville (Pauillac) | Château Ducru-Beaucaillou (Saint-Julien) |
| Château Cos d’Estournel (Saint-Estephe) | Château Montrose (Saint-Estephe) |
MÉDOC THIRD GROWTHS (TROISIEMES CRUS):
| Château Kirwan Cantenac (Margaux) | Château d’Issan Cantenac (Margaux) |
| Château Lagrange (Saint-Julien) | Château Langoa-Barton (Saint-Julien) |
| Château Giscours Labarde (Margaux) | Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry (Margaux) |
| Château Boyd-Cantenac Cantenac (Margaux) | Château Cantenac-Brown Cantenac (Margaux) |
| Château Palmer Cantenac (Margaux) | Château La Lagune Ludon (Haut-Médoc) |
| Château Desmirail (Margaux) | Château Calon-Ségur (Saint-Estephe) |
| Château FerriEre (Margaux) | Château Marquis d’Alesme-Becker (Margaux) |
MÉDOC FOURTH GROWTHS (QUATRIEMES CRUS) COMMUNE:
| Château Saint-Pierre (Saint-Julien) | Château Talbot (Saint-Julien) |
| Château Branaire-Ducru (Saint-Julien) | Château Duhart-Milon-Rothschild (Pauillac) |
| Château Pouget Cantenac (Margaux) | Château La Tour-Carnet Saint-Laurent (Haut Médoc) |
| Château Lafon-Rochet (Saint-EstEphe) | Château Beychevelle (Saint-Julien) |
| Château Prieuré-Lichine Cantenac (Margaux) | Château Marquis-de-Terme (Margaux) |
MÉDOC FIFTH GROWTHS (CINQUIEMES CRUS):
| Château Pontet-Canet (Pauillac) | Château Batailley (Pauillac) |
| Château Haut-Batailley (Pauillac) | Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Pauillac) |
| Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) | Château Lynch-Bages (Pauillac) |
| Château Lynch-Moussas (Pauillac) | Château Dauzac Labarde (Margaux) |
| Château D’Armailhac (Pauillac) | Château du Tertre Arsac (Margaux) |
| Château Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) | Château Pédesclaux (Pauillac) |
| Château Belgrave Saint-Laurent (Haut-Médoc) | Château de Camensac Saint-Laurent (Haut-Médoc) |
| Château Cos-Labory (Saint-EstEphe) | Château Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) |
| Château Croizet-Bages (Pauillac) | Château Cantemerle Macau (Haut-Médoc) |
SAUTERNES-BARSAC FIRST GREAT GROWTH (PREMIER CRU SUPERIEUR):
Château d’Yquem Sauternes
SAUTERNES-BARSAC FIRST GROWTHS (PREMIERS CRUS):
| Château La Tour-Blanche (Bommes) | Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey (Bommes) |
| Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey (Bommes) | Château de Rayne-Vigneau (Bommes) |
| Château Suduiraut (Preignac) | Château Coutet (Barsac) |
| Château Climens (Barsac) | Château Guiraud (Sauternes) |
| Château Rieussec (Fargues) | Château Rabaud-Promis (Bommes) |
| Château Sigalas-Rabaud (Bommes) |
SAUTERNES-BARSAC SECOND GROWTHS (DEUXIEMES CRUS):
| Château de Myrat (Barsac) | Château Doisy-Daëne (Barsac) |
| Château Doisy-Dubroca (Barsac) | Château Doisy-Védrines (Barsac) |
| Château d’Arche (Sauternes) | Château Filhot (Sauternes) |
| Château Broustet (Barsac) | Château Nairac (Barsac) |
| Château Caillou (Barsac) | Château Suau (Barsac) |
| Château de Malle (Preignac) | Château Romer-du-Hayot (Fargues) |
| Château Lamothe-Despujols (Sauternes) | Château Lamothe-Guignard (Sauternes) |
The Classification of 1932
- Cru Bourgeois wines classified – (3) Levels
- 444 properties in 1932 (50% of Medóc)
- 419 properties in 1978 (50% of Medóc)
- 247 properties in 2003 (50% of Medóc) – Suspended – Court Review
The Classification of 1959
- Graves wines classified
- 16 properties labeled Cru Classé
- 14 red wines; 8 white wines
Only classification to contain dry white wines
CLASSIFIED RED WINES OF GRAVES:
| Château Bouscaut (Cadaujac) | Château Haut-Bailly (Léognan) |
| Château Carbonnieux (Léognan) | Domaine de Chevalier (Léognan) |
| Château de Fieuzal (Léognan) | Château d’Olivier (Léognan) |
| Château Malartic-Lagravière (Léognan) | Château La Tour-Martillac (Martillac) |
| Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Martillac) | Château Haut-Brion (Pessac) |
| Château La Mission-Haut-Brion (Talence) | Château Pape-Clément (Pessac) |
| Château Latour-Haut-Brion (Talence) |
CLASSIFIED WHITE WINES OF GRAVES:
| Château Bouscaut (Cadaujac) | Château Carbonnieux (Léognan) |
| Château Domaine de Chevalier (Léognan) | Château d’Olivier (Léognan) |
| Château Malartic Lagravière (Léognan) | Château La Tour-Martillac (Martillac) |
| Château Laville-Haut-Brion (Talence) | Château Couhins-Lurton (Villenave d’Ornan) |
| Château Couhins (Villenave d’Ornan) | Château Haut-Brion (Pessac) (added in 1960) |
The Classification of 1958
- St.-Émilion wines added
–55 properties labeled Grand Cru Classé
–13 properties labeled Premiere Grand Cru Classé
FIRST GREAT GROWTH CATEGORY (Premiere Grand Cru Classé ) A:
| Château Ausone | Château Cheval Blanc |
FIRST GREAT GROWTH CATEGORY (Premiere Grand Cru Classé) B:
| Château Angélus | Château Beau-Séjour Bécot |
| Château BeauséJour (Duffau-Lagarosse) | Château Belair |
| Château Canon | Château Figeac |
| Château La Gaffeliere | Château Magdelaine |
| Château Pavie | Château Trottevieille |
| Clos Fourtet |
GREAT GROWTHS (Grand Cru Classé):
| Château Balestard La Tonelle | Château Bellevue |
| Château Bergat | Château Berliquet |
| Château Cadet Bon | Château Cadet-Piola |
| Château Canon La Gaffeliere | Château Cap De Mourlin |
| Château Chauvin | Château Clos Des Jacobins |
| Château Corbin | Château Corbin-Michotte |
| Château Curé Bon | Château Dassault |
| Château Faurie-De-Sauchard | Château Fonplégade |
| Château Fonroque | Château Franc Mayne |
| Château Grand Mayne | Château Grand Pontet |
| Château Guadet Saint-Julien | Château Haut Corbin |
| Château Haut Sarpe Saint-Christophe Des Bardes | Château L’arrosée |
| Château La Clotte | Château La Clusiere |
| Château La Couspaude | Château La Dominique |
| Château La Serre | Château La Tour Du Pin-Figeac (Giraud-Belivier) |
| Château La Tour Du Pin-Figeac (J.M. Moueix) | Château La Tour Figeac |
| Château Lamarzelle | Château Laniote |
| Château Larcis Ducasse Saint-Laurent Des Combes | Château Larmande |
| Château Laroque Saint-Christophe Des Bardes | Château Laroze |
| Château Le Prieuré | Château Les Grandes Murailles |
| Château Matras | Château Moulin Du Cadet |
| Château Pavie Decesse | Château Pavie Macquin |
| Château Petite Faurie De Soutard | Château Ripeau |
| Château Saint-George Cote Pavie | Château Soutard |
| Château Tertre Daugay | Château Troplong-Mondot |
| Château Villemaurine | Château Yon-Figeac |
| Clos De L’oratoire | Clos Saint-Martin |
| Couvent Des Jacobins |
- Chateaux as of 2006: (challenged in court – voided)
– 46 properties labeled Grand Cru Classé
– 15 properties labeled Premiere Grand Cru Classé
Mature Bordeaux – The Flight
1970 Chateau Leoville-Las Cases Grand Vin de Leoville, Saint-Julien
Wet stone, anise, and campfire ash on the nose. Well-balanced, soft tannins and light acidity. Graceful and elegant with sour cherry and floral notes. Surprisingly long finish. Just past peak, but still delicious.
1971 Château Beychevelle, Saint-Julien
Gamey, forest floor, and truffle on the nose. Well-balanced, firm, integrated tannins and moderate acidity. Firm, dark fruit. Almost vibrant, considering the wine is 53 years old. Long finish – suggests another ten years plus before this wine begins its descent.
1982 Château Haut-Batailley, Pauillac
Book leather, sour cherry, and dried fruit on the nose. Well-balanced, integrated tannins and light acidity. Dark fruit on the palate with tobacco leaf and cedar notes. Long finish.
1982 Château Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien
Musty, sour cherry, and dried wood on the nose. Tired. Off-balanced, soft tannins and firm acidity. Fading on the finish. A bit disappointing.
1988 Château Pavie-Decesse, Saint-Émilion
Funky, Band-Aid, and iodine on the nose. Well-balanced with silky tannins and light acidity. Dark fruit, graphite and pencil shavings. Long finish – charming.
1990 Château Margaux, Margaux
Jammy, gamey, and floral on the nose. Intense and vibrant. Well-balanced, velvety tannins and light acidity. Lovely. Lilac, anise and tobacco. Seemingly endless finish. This wine demonstrates wht Margaux is one of the world’s greatest wines.
1995 Château Talbot, Saint-Julien
Cherry fruit, dried herb, and cedar on the nose. Well-balanced, silky tannins and light acidity. Delicious. Dark fruit with more herbal notes. Long finish.
1996 Château La Dame de Montrose, Saint-Estèphe
Tobacco, anise, and garrigue on the nose. Well-balanced, firm tannins and moderate acidity. Tight. Very much like other ’96 wines. Holding firm. Long, muted finish. Will this improve with more age?
1997 Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc
Cherry, tobacco, minerality on the nose. Well-balanced, integrated tannins and light acidity. Sour cherry and rosemary on the palate. Long finish. Showing very well.
2000 Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc
Gamey, cherry, and tobacco on the nose. Well-balanced, firm tannins and moderate acidity. Charming. Dark fruit palate. Long finish – tight – many years to go.
2000 Château Cos Labory, Saint-Estèphe
Cherry, cedar, and eucalyptus on the nose. Well-balanced, firm tannins and moderate acidity. Sour cherry on the palate. Tight finish. Will the wine improve?
2005 Château Chasse-Spleen, Moulis-en-Médoc
Bright cherry, anise, and prune on the nose. Well-balanced, firm tannins and moderate acidity. Chewy, dark fruit palate. Long finish – tight – lots of aging potential.
2005 Château Peyrabon, Haut-Médoc
Cherry, tobacco, and wet stone on the nose. Dark fruit, black currants and fresh herbs on the palate. Long finish – a little loose and unraveled.
Mature Bordeaux – The Scoring
| 1990 Château Margaux, Margaux | 37 |
| 2000 Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc | 22 |
| 1982 Château Haut-Batailley, Pauillac | 15 |
| 1971 Château Beychevelle, Saint-Julien | 13 |
| 1996 Château La Dame de Montrose, Saint-Estèphe | 8 |
| 2000 Château Cos Labory, Saint-Estèphe | 7 |
| 1970 Chateau Leoville-Las Cases Grand Vin de Leoville, Saint-Julien | 7 |
| 2005 Château Chasse-Spleen, Moulis-en-Médoc | 3 |
| 1995 Château Talbot, Saint-Julien | 2 |
| 1997 Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc | 2 |
| 1982 Château Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien | 1 |
| 1988 Château Pavie-Decesse, Saint-Émilion | 1 |
| 2005 Château Peyrabon, Haut-Médoc | 0 |