A lovely starting wine – Vinicollina Venti22Due Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG – Simply charming!
We recently gathered a group of Musing followers together to taste a wonderful flight of Brunello wines. Ranging in vintage from 1997 through 2019, the flight featured simply amazing. Overall impression – not a bad wine in the group. Each was lovely, with distinctive characteristics, along with a pervasive consistent flavor profile, suggestive of the region.
Before we look at the flight, here is an overview of Brunello di Montalcino..
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino is in the northwest-central part of Italy within the greater region of Tuscany.
Brunello di Montalcino – History
Brunello di Montalcino is a red wine made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso grapes grown in the Montalcino area of Tuscany, Italy. The name Brunello means “little dark one” and refers to the dark color and small size of the grapes.
The first recorded mention of Brunello dates to 1842, when a farmer named Clemente Santi isolated a clone of Sangiovese that produced high-quality wines. His grandson, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, is considered the father of modern Brunello, as he was the first to produce a wine that aged well and could compete with the best French wines. In 1888, he released the first vintage of Brunello di Montalcino, which was praised by critics and won awards at international exhibitions.
Brunello di Montalcino became one of the first Italian wines to receive DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) status in 1966, and then DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status in 1980.
Today, Brunello di Montalcino is one of the most sought-after and expensive wines in the world, with a production of about 9 million bottles per year.
Brunello di Montalcino – Laws
Brunello di Montalcino must be made from 100% Sangiovese grapes grown in the Montalcino area, which covers about 24,000 hectares (59,000 acres) of land, of which only 3,500 hectares (8,600 acres) are planted with vines. The grapes must be harvested by hand and the yield must not exceed 8 tons per hectare.
The wine must be aged for at least four years, of which at least two must be in oak barrels and four months in the bottle. The wine can be released to the market on January 1st of the fifth year after the harvest (so, 2019 Brunello can be release on January 1st of 2024).
For the Riserva category, the wine must be aged for at least five years, of which at least two and a half must be in oak barrels and six months in the bottle. The wine can be released on the market on January 1st of the sixth year after the harvest.
The alcohol content must be at least 12.5% and the acidity must be between 5 and 6.5 grams per liter.
As a DOCG wine, Brunello must pass a chemical and organoleptic analysis and a tasting by a panel of experts before receiving the DOCG seal.
Brunello di Montalcino – Wine Making Techniques
Brunello di Montalcino is made from a specific clone of Sangiovese, called Sangiovese Grosso or Brunello, which has thick skins and small berries. The grapes are usually harvested in late September or early October, depending on the ripeness and the weather conditions.
The grapes are destemmed and crushed, and the must is fermented in stainless steel or concrete tanks at controlled temperatures for about two weeks. The wine is then transferred to oak barrels, where it undergoes malolactic fermentation and aging. The oak barrels can vary in size, origin and age, depending on the style and preference of the producer. Some producers use large Slavonian oak casks, which impart less oak flavor and allow the wine to breathe more. Some producers use smaller French oak barriques, which impart more oak flavor and tannins and make the wine more concentrated and complex. Some producers use a combination of both, or experiment with other types of wood, such as chestnut or cherry. The wine is racked and blended several times during the aging process, and sometimes fined and filtered before bottling. The wine is then aged in the bottle for at least four months before release, or six months for the Riserva category.
Brunello di Montalcino – Notable Producers
- Biondi-Santi: The historic producer of Brunello di Montalcino, founded by Ferruccio Biondi-Santi in the late 19th century. It is still run by his descendants, who follow the traditional methods of wine making and aging. The wines are elegant, refined and long-lived, with aromas of red fruits, flowers, spices and leather.
- Case Basse di Gianfranco Soldera: A cult producer of Brunello di Montalcino, founded by Gianfranco Soldera in 1972. He was a former insurance broker who bought a 23-hectare estate in the southwest of Montalcino and planted it with Sangiovese vines. He was known for his meticulous and uncompromising approach to wine making, which resulted in wines of extraordinary quality and character. The wines are complex, expressive and age-worthy, with aromas of cherries, berries, herbs, earth and tobacco.
- Castello Banfi: A large and modern producer of Brunello di Montalcino, founded by the Mariani family in 1978. It is one of the most influential and innovative producers in the region, with a 2,800-hectare estate that includes a castle, a hotel, a restaurant and a research center. It produces a range of wines, from the classic Brunello di Montalcino to the single-vineyard Poggio alle Mura and the cru Poggio all’Oro. The wines are rich, powerful and balanced, with aromas of black fruits, vanilla, chocolate and coffee.
- Il Poggione: A historic and prestigious producer of Brunello di Montalcino, founded by Lavinio Franceschi in 1890. It is one of the largest and oldest estates in the region, with 125 hectares of vineyards and 70 hectares of olive groves. It is run by the fifth generation of the Franceschi family, who combine tradition and innovation in wine making and aging. The wines are elegant, structured and consistent, with aromas of red fruits, violets, licorice and tobacco.
- Valdicava: A small and acclaimed producer of Brunello di Montalcino, founded by Bramante Abbruzzese in 1953. It is located in the northern part of Montalcino, where the vineyards benefit from a cooler and higher altitude. It is run by his grandson, Vincenzo Abbruzzese, who follows a strict and meticulous approach to wine making and aging. The wines are intense, concentrated and complex, with aromas of dark fruits, flowers, spices and minerals.
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino – The Flight
1997 Palazzo
Dried cherry with cedar, and library book leather hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with silky tannins. Lovely palette. Pencil shavings, cherry, and dried spice notes. Long finish. Still has five to seven years before it passes peak.
1997 Castello Banfi
Dark cherry nose. Light cedar, bight spicy, floral hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Sour cherry, and black licorice on the palate. Long finish. Still climbing. Not sure where this wine is going to end up.
2003 San Felice Campogiovanni
Cooked, jammy nose with black cherry, and crushed violet hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Okay-balance with moderate tannin. Sour cherry, with cedar, and herbaceous notes. Long finish. Not terribly Interesting.
2013 San Felice Campogiovanni
Dried cherry nose with cedar, allspice hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with aggressive tannins. Jammy, dark fruit core, with cherry, violet, and crushed rose petal notes. Long finish.
2015 Argiano
Bright cherry nose, with cedar, floral, and violet hints. Lovely. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dry, dark fruit core and cherry, tarry notes. Lively. Long finish. Charming.
2016 Col D’Orcia
Earthy nose, with truffle, cherry, violet, and spicy hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm aggressive tannins. Black cherry and black licorice on the palate with dried herb notes. Long finish. Great aging potential.
2017 Uccelliera
Black cherry nose with fresh herb, floral, and black pepper hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, aggressive tannins. Dry with black cherry, black licorice, floral, and tar notes. Long finish. Lovely. Sublime. Long aging.
2018 Casanova di Neri 40 Anne
Earthy, with black cherry, fresh herb, truffle, and licorice hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, well-integrated tannins. Black cherry, with cedar, and tarry notes. Very pretty. Long finish. Delightful.
2018 Tenuta Luce
Jammy nose, with black cherry hints. Very big. Clumsy. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with aggressive tannins. Massive. Brooding. Black cherry with tarry, jammy notes. Long finish. A bit confused. Lacks elegance.
2019 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Pianrosso
Dried cherry with nice violet hints. Pretty. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, aggressive tannins. Youthful. Black cherry with a dark fruit core and chocolate notes. Wow! Long finish. Charming. Fantastic aging potential.
2019 Altesino
Dried cherry with floral hints. Lovely nose. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, silky tannins. Beautiful palate with cherry and tar notes. Supple. Inviting. Long finish. Drinking beautifully. Deceptively age worthy.
2019 Valdicava Vigna Montosoli
Black cherry nose. Stunning. Brooding with violet and licorice hints. Wow! Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, aggressive tannins. Dark fruit core. Very young. Layered. Long finish. 20 plus years aging potential.
Barolo – The Scoring
| 1997 Palazzo | 48 |
| 2015 Argiano | 25 |
| 2018 Casanova di Neri 40 Anne | 11 |
| 2019 Altesino | 10 |
| 2017 Uccelliera | 6 |
| 2019 Valdicava Vigna Montosoli | 5 |
| 2016 Col D’Orcia | 1 |
| 2018 Tenuta Luce | 1 |
| 2019 Ciacci Piccolomini d”Aragona Pianrosso | 1 |
| 1997 Castello Banfi | 0 |
| 2003 San Felice Campogiovanni | 0 |
| 2013 San Felice Campogiovanni | 0 |
A true delight, showcasing just how wonderful Brunello di Montalcino can be.
Tu Salut!