Paul J. Malagrifa, CWE, CSW, CSS
I have been studying and teaching about the mysteries and joys of wine for over 40 years. For all those years, the framework that has been critical to the delivery of my curriculum is the classic appellation systems of Europe.
What is an “appellation system?” Very simply put, an appellation system is how a country arranges and manages the wines produced there by geographic boundaries. In other words, the “place of origin” of the various sundry wines. Included within most appellation systems are also laws and regulations that govern all aspects of the wine making process, from permitted grape varietals to the length of time a wine can age in barrel, even specifying the wood from which said barrel is made.
Appellation systems were originally created to maintain consistency in regional wine, combat fraud, and establish brand recognition. Appellations also help customers build trust in the origin of the wines they buy and ensure that growers in those regions are compensated fairly. The oldest and most respected appellation system, that of the French, was established in 1923 (Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe). The Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) was designed to protect the concept of terrior, which is the interwoven elements of soil, climate, grape varietals, and wine making techniques that create the uniqueness of the various wines from France. Every country in world has some version of the AOC, many are less complicated and far less restrictive than the AOC, and others, like the Italian DOC are equally complicated.
If we cast our thoughts back to the early 20th Century, one can imagine the somewhat confusing aspects of fine wine. The lack of knowledge among wine consumers at that time made the procurement landscape a veritable mine field and in the absence of enforced rules, confusion and obfuscation abounded. Appellations were essential to the growing wine industry. So was born the framework upon which wine education was founded.
Fast forward 100 years. The wine industry is a multi-billion-dollar market with wines made in every corner of the globe. Technology and global warming have made it possible to create wines of high-quality and equivalent drinkability, regardless of the place of origin. In fact, enterprising and highly skilled wine makers are experimenting with differing viticultural techniques, varietal combinations, and vinification processes that fall outside the mandated regulations and yet, produce wines of distinction. Wines that are worthy of attention. And yet these experiments are technically illegal and are given no credence in the established appellation systems.
This lack of recognition finally forced major revisions in the established appellation systems. In Italy, the resulting uproar spawned a new category in the exalted DOC system: Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT). Over the last several decades there has been a move in many countries to create less restrictive categories within the appellation systems to provide flexibility for winemaker creativity.
Anyone looking in from the outside will reasonably ask: Are appellation systems relevant any longer? If we look at the presumptive reasons why appellation systems were created in the first place, perhaps an answer evolves.
To maintain consistency in regional wine
Historically, it was believed that the wines of a particular region should all taste similarly. Variation among producers was acceptable, so long as there was a unifying theme tied to the region. As the industry evolved and became global, and as wine consumer knowledge and taste also evolved, the requirement for this unifying theme diminished. Consumers care less about regional typicity and care more about drinkability and taste. Is this a trend that we agree is good? I for one, do not, but others might.
To combat fraud
Like any product, the laws of supply and demand apply, and as such, a particular manufacturer’s product may command more money to acquire. This is especially true for wine, where any wine can become a highly sought-after collectable. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and a sure-fire way to make a fortune, as well as land in jail. Wine fraud is a growing problem in the industry, and it is unclear whether appellation systems combat fraud or make it worse. The recent seizures of thousands of bottles of fraudulent Brunello di Montalcino are a good example. The sky-rocketing demand for Brunello di Montalcino created a tremendous opportunity for less-than-honest wine makers to make a huge profit by producing fake Brunello and capitalizing on the name and popularity of the region. What if there was no Brunello di Montalcino? What if there was just great wine from Montalcino, made from the Brunello grape, or better yet, made from any grape? Would the extraordinary profit-making opportunities exist? Would they be as motivating for criminals to act? Eliminating the appellation Brunello di Montalcino, while on face-value may seem like a means to combat wine fraud, in fact, it was the enforcement elements of the appellation system that enabled the criminals to be caught. Even without an appellation system, the criminals would have sought to exploit popular wines. In fine, appellation systems do help combat fraud, if not deter it.
To ensure brand recognition
One hundred years ago, wine consumers tended to pursue regions. In a few select cases, producers were often secondary, especially given that most wine was shipped in a cask and then bottled by the distributor/shipper under their label. Today, especially with publications like Wine Spectator, the focus is on the producer. The region is known and touted, but the consumer buys by the name and fame of the producer. Appellation is often a footnote in the story.
To build consumer trust
Again, one hundred years ago, wine consumers depended on knowing the strength of a region and the reputation of the distributors. The integrity of the wines from a region was protected by the rules and regulations of the appellation system. Today, consumers rely more on their own personal experience and the experience of others to drive integrity. Consumers vote with their purchases. Fail them and they will take their hard-earned money elsewhere.
To ensure wine makers are compensated fairly
The exploitation of wine makers is far less an issue today, than it was 100 years ago. Knowledge is power and the smarter wine consumers become, the less wine makers need protection against unscrupulous distributors or negociants. Once the field was levelled, for which appellation systems were critically important, the natural laws of competition took over.
So, the answers above, from one perspective, make a case for eliminating classic appellation systems. But wine is much more than a saleable commodity. Wine is about passion, artistry, toil, and suffering. Wine is about joy, tradition, and ritual. The same argument that keeps the cork industry afloat will keep appellation systems firmly in place. As a wine educator I open a lot of wine and I am overjoyed when I find that the majority of a class’s bottles are equipped with screw caps. A simple twist is all that is needed to release the pleasures within. And yet, despite my happiness in such an occurrence, there is something missing. Having to employ a corkscrew to open a bottle requires focus, attention and skill. This ritual that I have practiced well over 10,000 times prepares my mind for the task at hand. So too does the recitation of appellation system rules and regulations. The appreciation of wine is far more than what is in the bottle. The history and traditions of a region are as important to the appreciation of a wine as the taste. Appellation systems will remain relevant for as long as there is wine. However, the take-away is for appellation systems to continue to provide benefit to wine makers, flexibility and adaptation are key. At the end of the day, the rules and regulations governing wine making should support the production of wine, which consumers should want to flock to buy in ever-increasing quantities!
– Cheers!