At Vino Italiano with Giulia Cecche
Back in 2024, I had the pleasure of attending a lovely wine dinner at Vino Italiano in Waltham, MA sampling the wines of Castello di Monsanto, one of the most historically significant wineries, located in Chianti Classico. That evening, I met Giulia Cecchi, the daughter of Laura Bianchi, owner of Castello di Monsanto, who led us through a wonderful journey of wine, history, and culture while curating their amazing wines.
From the 2024 blog:
Aldo Bianchi, Giulia’s grandfather, and a native of San Gimignano, left Tuscany before the Second World War to seek his fortune in the North of Italy in Milan. In 1960, he returned to Tuscany for a wedding and was enchanted by the view from the terrace of Castello di Monsanto: the sweeping panorama of the Val d’Elsa with the imposing, backdrop of the Towers of San Gimignano. Aldo fell in love and within a few months of his visit, he purchased the property. But Aldo’s enchantment was nothing compared to his son Fabrizio’s passion for the wines he found in the cellar. Fabrizio’s enduring love of wine, handed down to him by his grandmother, a “Piedmontese,” together with an undying entrepreneurial spirit, provided the energy required to restore Castello di Monsanto’s rightful place in Tuscany. Together with the untiring help of his wife Giuliana, Fabrizio started to plant new vineyards and restore the various farmhouses on the property. As Giulia related this story, one could picture the true love and passion that emanates from the vineyards of Castello di Monsanto.
Castello di Monsanto consists of four vineyards: il Poggio, Scanni, il Mulino, and il Salcio. There are a total of 72 hectares (178 acres) dispersed over altitudes ranging between 280 and 320 meters (919-1050 ft) above sea level. Of these 72 hectares (178 acres), 56 (138 acres) are planted with Sangiovese. Castello di Monsanto has made the Sangiovese a point of strength and underscores the grape’s tremendous potential. This belief has resulted in the production of Castello di Monsanto’s two great wines: the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (formerly Riserva) from the “Il Poggio” vineyard and the Sangioveto Grosso from the Scanni vineyard.
From their website: “The soil is certainly the factor that best defines the identity of each of Castello di Monsanto’s wines. The presence of galestro, a schistous rock, gives the wines bold characteristics and considerable depth. At the surface it is gravelly, allowing the roots to penetrate through the layers, gaining tannins and vibrant acidity. In its solid form it is known as Macigno Chiantigiano and retains moisture at profound depths, allowing plants to survive prolonged dry spells. On the southern slope of the estate, the presence of galestro alternates with a high concentration of tuff, a looser soil type with better drainage. Over time, fossils from the Cretaceous period have been found in this soil, illustrating the area’s dynamic geology.”
In the DOCG wines, Sangiovese, from the mother vineyard Il Poggio, is combined with small percentages of other traditional red grape varieties, Canaiolo and Colorino to create the cuvée. In 1974, the Valdigallo vineyard, known today as Il Salcio, and Il Mulino, two non-native varietals are planted: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The planting densities follow tradition with around 5000/5500 plants per hectare (2000-2200 plants per acre), with the guyot system and the spurred cordon system is used throughout the vineyards.
Fabrizio was a trendsetter and believed passionately in the power of Sangiovese. As a result, in 1968, he decided to eliminate the traditional white grapes from the Poggio blend (Trebbiano and Malvasia). Interestingly, changes in the DOCG requirements in 2006 finally codified this approach. Other innovations during this time period involved the replacement of traditional wood primary fermentation vats with stainless steel, temperature-controlled containers. Fabrizio also substituted Slavonian oak barrels for traditional chestnut barrels in an effort to impart sweeter, less-aggressive tannins to the wine.
Experimentation and innovation has continued apace throughout the 80’s and 90’s, as well as redevelopment of the various buildings on the property. In 1986 construction was begun on a 300 meter tunnel, developed for the storage of wooden barrels during aging, leveraging classic marl stone to imbue the space with classic Etruscan architecture. It took six years to complete and represents the spirit and strength of the Bianchi family and their commitment to Castello di Monsanto.
Giulia’s mother, Laura came into the business in 1989 and has gradually learned the about the many marvels and difficulties of transforming grapes into wine. In 2001, Laura and Fabrizio began a collaboration with Andrea Giovannini, noted Italian enologist to focus on producing some of the highest-quality wines in Chianti.
Fast forward to 2025:
And another spectacular evening began with Giulia and the wonderful wines of Monsanto!
Guests were greeted with a glass of the Fabrizio Bianchi Chardonnay, a Burgundian-style wine that demonstrates the commitment to quality, authenticity, and innovation. The wine is produced from Chardonnay grown on a tiny (6 hectare) vineyard composed almost entirely of galestro soil. The wine is aged in 30% oak barrels with no malolactic fermentation, preserving the purity of the fruit and the terrior.
2023 Castello di Monsanto Fabrizio Bianchi Chardonnay Toscana Bianco IGT (100 Chardonnay)
Tight nose with almond skin and citrus hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with good structure. Apple and pear on the palate with oak and cream notes. Long finish. Tight. Needs time to open. Serve warmer to unlock the delicacy of the wine.
The wine was accompanied by:
Insalata con Uovo Fritto – Crispy Truffled Fried Egg, Pan Fried Eggplant, Passato di Pomodoro
2021 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo & Colorino)
Earthy nose with dried cherry, crushed violet, and anise hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Dark fruit core. Powerful – Concentrated. Tremendous. Long finish. Tight, jammy, juicy with rose attar and anise on the aftertaste. Wow!
2019 Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo & Colorino)
Vibrant nose. Spicy with fresh cherry hints. Perfumed. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with silky tannins. Dark fruit core – brooding – intense. Crushed rose attar on the palate. Long finish. Charming. Anise and black licorice on the aftertaste. Another wow!
The wines were accompanied by:
Porcini Insalata – Seared Porcini Mushrooms, Arugula, Balsamico, Warm Gorgonzola Crema
The next two wines represent an entirely new offering from Famiglia Cecchi – Aminta from Montalcino:
2023 Aminta (Famiglia Cecchi), Rosso di Montalcino
Earthy nose with dried violet hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Moderate length. Anise and black licorice on the aftertaste. Tart.
2020 Aminta (Famiglia Cecchi), Brunello di Montalcino
Tight nose with dried cherry and anise hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with firm, dry tannins. Intense. Brooding. Dark fruit core with black cherry and fresh herb notes. Long finish. Remarkable.
The wines were accompanied by:
Pappardelle con Chingale – Slowly Simmered Wild Boar, Hand Cut Pappardelle Pasta, Tomato Ragu, Parmiggiano
2074 Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG Gan Selezione (90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo & Colorino)
Dried cherry nose with dried rosemary hints. Lovely. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Well-balanced with well-integrated tannins. Delightful. Dried cherry, anise, violet, and floral notes. Spectacularly long finish. What a treat!
The wine was accompanied by:
Agnello Arrosto – Oven Roasted Lamb Chops, Potato Croquette, Garlicky Broccoli Rabe, Chianti Red Wine Sugo
2006 Castello di Monsanto La Chimera Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC Occhio di Pernice
Vibrant nose. Cooked fruit with spicy, exotic hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well-balanced with firm tannins. Fresh peach and cooked apricot notes. Long finish. Layered and delicious.
The wine was accompanied by:
Torta di Pignoli – Honey Pine Nut Tart, Lemon Creme Anglaise, Vanilla Ice Cream
Yet another spectacular evening – a very big thank you to everyone at Vino Italiano and an even bigger thank you to Giulia Cecche, a true wine and cultural ambassador with an abundantly engaging personality! Tu Salut!