Aglianico is a native, red varietal from the south of Italy in Campania. It produces some of the most undervalued wines and is virtually unknown outside of wine cognoscenti. I have long hailed the amazingness of this grape in countless social media posts, so it should surprise no one that I am at it again.

This time, we are tasting an even less well-known producer, Guastaferro and their “old vines” Aglianico called Memini.

Raffaelle Guastaferro, who founded his estate nearly 20 years ago in 2002, produces incredible red wine from some of the region’s oldest Aglianico vines and has become one of Campania’s newest star producers. Noted Italian wine critic Antonio Galloni of Vinous had the following high praise recently for Guastaferro: “these are some of the most exciting wines coming out of Campania today.”

The estate is located in Taurasi, in the favored Piano d’Angelo subzone, and has become known for well-made red and white wines, but it’s Guastaferro’s work with Aglianico that has really driven their ascent. Even though the estate itself is fairly young, its pre-existing Aglianico vines are not. Most of them are between 100 and 150 years old and are un-grafted (i.e. pre Phylloxera), planted on clay and calcareous soils with volcanic elements. The resulting grapes are ultra concentrated and produce very powerful and ripe wines but at the same time with precision and balance.

The wine is simply amazing. A deep, dark, brooding nose with blackberry, black cherry, briar patch and anise notes. On the palate the wine is well-balanced with moderate acidity and firm, tough tannins. Intensely structured with a dark core of black fruit, this wine is built for the long term. Tart cherry, rose attar and dried herbs abound with hints of wet stone and leather. A long finish with layers of complexity, the wine seems endless.

Currently at Vino Italiano on Main Street in Waltham. Regular retail $33, on sale at $26.50. Get it while supplies last.

Tu Salut!